So I think I may be screwed...

I was changing my oil today- removed the drain bolt, changed the oil filter, let the car drain. I had a bitch of a time getting the old washer off of the drain bolt- it looked completely flattened and I had to practically tear it off, but it didn't take a crazy amount of effort to remove the bolt itself from the block.

I went to reinstall the drain bolt with a fresh crush washer, first getting it finger tight and then using the torque wrench set to 29ft-lbs. I notice that it's not really getting any tighter, so I unscrew the bolt and am greeted with nice metal shavings. I put my finger in the drain hole and pull out more shavings. When I look down it it looks like 1/2 of the hole is stripped.

So what gives? This is the first oil change since I purchased the car. Did the previous changer overtorque the bolt? Did *I* do something stupid? I guess it's off to the dealership... I'm guessing that this will take a new oil pan and lots of cash, eh? I'm also betting I should have it flat-bedded rather than risking installing the drain bolt with less than specced torque and driving it there? If anyone can give me an idea of what to expect or tips on what I should do, please let me know.

Thankfully we have an extra car that we were trying to sell. At least I won't be stranded.

Update: I went by an auto parts store and inquired with the staff. They suggested using a single oversized bolt with a tapered end. A friend with a good bit of auto experience suggested there might also be a kit to deal with this, rather than replacing the whole pan. What say you to those options?

 

Update 2: Pardon me for not using the search function right off the bat- I hope you can understand I was bit flustered. So it looks like I have three options: 1) Oversized bolt, 2) Heli-Coil kit, 3) New oil pan. For the latter two options, I'd either bring the car to a trusted mechanic or shop. Is there any reason I couldn't use option 1 so that I can drive the car to have options 2 or 3 done? I just want to make sure that I don't do any further damage.

 

This is just me, I would get a new pan if the threads in the pan are done.
I have one for sale too $90+

But really, new pan. Its A LOT cheaper than a new motor and not hard to install.

 

Oh yeah, I would get it towed only because I have AAA.

 

Well, the self-tapping bolt is in and torqued to spec. Warmed the engine up to operating temps and everything seems good to go. I've got a little time to consider my options now at least.

 

^dont drive around other than to the shop. it WILL eventually fail and when it does, its gonna be BAD.

 

A well-installed helicoil is a good option, but a self-tapping plug is not as reliable. However, if a new pan is only $90, that's another option to consider. The oil pan is relatively easy to replace (unlike in my Miata), and helicoils have a good reputation.

 

WTF is a helicoil? Thx lol

 

It is a helical insert that is used to replace stripped threads.

Here's a nice write up on them:

http://www.roadstarmagazine.com/modules.ph...article&sid=233

Heli-Coil is actually a brand...but so commonly used it's like saying, "do you have a Kleenex."

 

I wouldn't risk my engine over a $90 oil pan.