I am doing a clutch job and down to one problem. I can't get the drive shaft bolts out. I have tried penetrating oil and a "little" heat (for fear of damaging rubber). I have never seen this style of connection before and short of twisting them off I am at a loss and open to suggestions.

 

I take it you have a AP1, they can be difficult to get out because of the small drive head on them. You need to get a tight fitting 6mm hex bit and you need to go in straight, no swivel. If they strip out use a cold chisel and put a cut in the side of the head to relieve the pressure and then twist them out. Good luck

 

Thanks! Should I be worried about applying more heat to the side of the flange (threaded flange tranny side) ?

 

Try the allen key and grip the outside of the bolt head with a needle nose vice grip, use leverage from both.

 

What a PITA I finally got the fronts out and one of the rear I even welded a wrench to an allen and still couldn't get the rest. I ended up cutting the heads of with a die grinder and cutoff wheel.
I have went through every step in the manual after two days and am down to one FN bolt i.e. upper starter bolt. I can barely see it let alone get to it I think every hose on the motor is in the way. Does this bolt go through the bell housing? If not why does it even need to come out? Suggestions on the best way to tackle this? Thanks!

 

Take off the tensioner and the alternator, it makes getting to the top starter bolt easy, much easier than swiveling the alternator out of the way only, the bolt does go through the bell housing. Careful with that knock sensor it's made of sand or something, some people disconnect it first.. For reference you only need 1 bolt to hold the starter in, some people like to leave the top starter bolt off, but leave the bottom one on as it's easier to get to.

 

Thanks, didn't realize that. Appreciate the help guys.
I believe I will replace everything except flywheel (have surfaced). Sounds like OEM with an ACT Sport pressure plate is the way to go. Who has best pricing ?
Do you guys grease drive shaft CV joints, if so what's the proper lube?

 

They require no maintenance. If you're going for the sport one and not the HD then you might as well just re-use your oem pressure plate. Also make sure you use the Honda Urea grease on the release bearing. Greasing the surface of the inner race, the channel in the race, the guide sleeve, and the fork tip are essential to having a smooth clutch.

If you are planning on the HD, then THmotorsports has it, or Ebay. They're all going to be ~$350. I also suggest to bypass the clutch interlock switch if you go with that pressure plate.

 

Be careful with that knock sensor on the block while accessing the top starter bolt. The best way to go about this is to take off that belt tensioner then you will have a straight shot at that starter bolt. You will also need a bunch of extension and a swivel head socket. It's a pretty expensive sensor from the dealer.

 

+1 on advice for reaching the starter bolt. I do the exact same.