Frequent reader(?) will recall that I am in the throes of putting an S2000 drivetrain in an ancient British car for no particular reason other than that I can.

Some of the details of this lunacy can be found here and I am now pondering whether I should go dry sump which will give me the advantage of lowering the complete assembly with all that brings, plus this will allow easier fitment of the (original) engine crossmember with modified S2000 engine mounts to keep the whole thing from falling out onto the road and will allow the headers to clear the "chassis" and the steering arm.

Leaving the S2000 engine standard will mean it sits higher and fabrication of both the steering linkage and the engine crossmember/mounts will be more complex.

I believe with dry sump that the whole assembly can be 'lowered' by approx. 4" - all good so far.

My question is, what disadvantages are there with a dry sump, other than cost and the relative complexity which goes along with fitting such an item?

My apologies if this is not in the correct forum, feel free to punt it where it needs to go, mods, if this is the wrong place.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump

you summed it up...

 

Oh dear, I was hoping I had missed something good/bad/significant!

My fault for doing my research I suppose.


Not that it matters because I have to do her bidding today - I'm praying for rain for tomorrow so that I am stuck inside, in the garage.

 

you do the build and there will be folks following your results...




i don't know, a garage isn't such a bad place to hang out.. i would like a larger one.. working towards that...




enjoy her bidding.. that often produces positive results in itself...

 

No downsides apart from cost really. The system isn't terribly complex, preventing oil starvation is the best thing you can do for the engine. You can even use the scavenge pump as a PVC system which works much better than the current system.

 

In reality, I suspect that the 'line' of the driveshaft to the rear end will determine the location of the drivetrain more than anything else, I would like it to be as straight as possible so that when I destroy the diff (3 times the original hp and 2 times the torque should help that process) and replace I with an 8" rear I wont have to be moving all those heavy bits around again.

Then I have to diddle around with working out the optimum ratio for the diff - with the standard 13" and then with the 15" wheels it will probably end up with, more for tire availability than anything else, other than to nicely fill those wheel wells.

Thanks to all, I will be asking many more questions as I go along...

 

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...up-horsepower/

 

Interesting.

While I never say no to more power I'm just looking to get the lump to fit right and look good.
After a little grunting and groaning last night it looks like dry sumping will not be needed to get the height and clearances I need.
Bottom line, if it is too high, too far forward etc then I can revisit the dry sump approach again.

 

Update, for any that care, it is in, done and runs.

 

Pics please