I'm going to get a baseline for my car this week on a Dynojet.

I'm still waiting for several parts to come in and I can't decide which order it will be better to install and dyno. Here is my current plan:

Dyno this week or next week to get base. A Mugen Ti dual exhaust is already on the car.

Install Vortech Supercharger, dyno again.

Install Proflow throttle body, and Mugen headers, dyno again.

I could do the throttle body and headers before the charger, but I think they will show more of a gain with the supercharger than without it.

Any suggestions and reasons for the order?

(Dynos will be done at the same shop on the same dyno each time)

 

Hmm. You could always dyno it in every combination (9 times).

I think the way you are planning would be most informative. If you still have your stock exhaust, I would recommend putting it back on for the baseline and first dyno after the S/C install. That way you could see how much the S/C does by itself, then dyno again with the better intake and exhaust as a whole.

 

Thanks for the reply gernby. I am pretty sure the mugen Ti exhaust adds nothing but sound and a loss of 25lbs of rear end weight. Not sure it is worth the time and money swapping it back and forth with my stock.

I noticed from your sig you have some of the same mods as I do.
I don't have the AEM CAI w/ Insulator Sleeve since I ordered the supercharger, but the rest are the same. Why did you switch to the colder Denso IK24's?

Thanks!

 

The order sounds good. I don't think you would get much of a gain from the other mods without the SC.

 

I agree that it probably doesn't make much difference on the stock setup, but the presence of the exhaust might skew the S/C gains. It might make the S/C look like it is adding an extra 5 or 10 hp by itself. The exhaust may make more difference than the header (I'm guessing).

The Hondata gasket and CAI result in significantly lower intake air temperature. Lower IAT will make the plugs run hotter, since there is more total heat in the combustion (more oxygen and fuel). I want to run the coldest plugs I can to prevent detonation (leading to retarded timing), without the plugs fouling out. These have been great (after probably 6 weeks). If they are too cold, they will eventually foul out, and I'll just go back the the originals.

 

I have the 3 mugen sensors and the hondata insulator. I run 93 octane and don't have any detonation(that I notice) in 100* heat. I was wondering if I would need to run colder plugs with the supercharger and other mods, but I am not that knowledgable on plugs. I know what a fouled plug looks like. But I'm not sure how to use plugs along with engine tuning. Any advice or should I just talked to the guys working on my car?

 

I'm sure you will need colder plugs with the S/C. You may need to go with IK27s. Since the S has knock sensors, you shouldn't ever notice any detonation. If the engine starts to experience any detonation at all, the ECU will retard the timing. What you will notice is a loss of power when it gets hot.

With the mods that I have done, I don't ever notice any loss of power. I would recommend going with the coldest plug you can. It is a pretty small investment, and if the colder plugs prevent timing retard, they'll let you keep allot of power. If they are too cold, you'll know it when they foul out, but no damage will be done.

 

Do you have a suggested place to buy them from? What's the cost?

 

Which sensors do you have from Mugen? I wasn't aware of any. If you are referring to the fan switch, thermostat and radiator cap, they are not sensors.

 

Sorry, I meant the fan switch, thermo and rad cap.