Endless Airbubbles in clutch line
#1
Endless Airbubbles in clutch line
So my S2000 has been acting strange lately
shes still driveable but is very annoying to do so
Symptoms
*shakey and rattles when the clutch starts to engage
*requires a little excessive throttle to take off (shifts fine tho once its moving)
*reverse is near impossible because of the amount of throttle needed to move
*clutch smells bad when using reverse due to the amount of throttle needed
*tried every method to bleed the cltuch(gravity, 2 man pump n hold, Mity Vac) but it has endless air bubbles coming out
when i break open the clutch line it reminds me of a soda machine running out of carbonation
the amount of bubbles and fluid that gets pushed out is ridiculous
Every method yields the same results endless bubbles and no improvement in drivability
*Gravity Method(fluid does not flow smoothly comes out bubbles and little fluid rather than solid stream of fluid with air bubbles traveling in it
Im at a loss
any advice would be greatly appreciated
shes still driveable but is very annoying to do so
Symptoms
*shakey and rattles when the clutch starts to engage
*requires a little excessive throttle to take off (shifts fine tho once its moving)
*reverse is near impossible because of the amount of throttle needed to move
*clutch smells bad when using reverse due to the amount of throttle needed
*tried every method to bleed the cltuch(gravity, 2 man pump n hold, Mity Vac) but it has endless air bubbles coming out
when i break open the clutch line it reminds me of a soda machine running out of carbonation
the amount of bubbles and fluid that gets pushed out is ridiculous
Every method yields the same results endless bubbles and no improvement in drivability
*Gravity Method(fluid does not flow smoothly comes out bubbles and little fluid rather than solid stream of fluid with air bubbles traveling in it
Im at a loss
any advice would be greatly appreciated
#3
#5
But in your case using a clear tube might be a good idea, so you can see when bubbles are cured.
Tube can also be less messy (tube into container - I like to use small soda bottle, drill hole in cap just big enough for tube so tube doesn't pull out and nothing spills if bottle tips over).
BE SURE NOT TO LET MASTER RUN DRY while you are letting it bleed. Otherwise you will be introducing more air that will be difficult to get out.
Tube can also be less messy (tube into container - I like to use small soda bottle, drill hole in cap just big enough for tube so tube doesn't pull out and nothing spills if bottle tips over).
BE SURE NOT TO LET MASTER RUN DRY while you are letting it bleed. Otherwise you will be introducing more air that will be difficult to get out.
#6
If symptoms are correctly understood. Randomly one day your clutch started acting as you described, no repairs took place no parts changed or leaks found and clutch peddle feels somewhat normal.
Imagine holding your clutch right at the point of engagement and revving over 3k. Your friction disk is bouncing off of your pressure plate and fly wheel slightly engaging both at the same time but not.
This is the cause of your burning clutch and shudder.
Why would this happen and why is it not a mechanical problem?
You stated you have bubbles to no end... Your master cyl. attached to your peddle is strong.... very strong. slave cyl not so much.
You depress the peddle the master is doing its job pushing that slave until your clutch disengages and your slave is doing its job... until... the slave cyl is supposed to release. But its a bastard and decided to get stuck and the big bully master is pulling its hardest to rip that fluid back but actually the slave says no and your pulling air through your slave seals. Your slave is an a**hole. replace that hoe.
This is only correct if the above assumptions and understandings of your situation are true... just make sure your master isnt leaking into you foot well first..
Audi tech that happens to love s2ks
Imagine holding your clutch right at the point of engagement and revving over 3k. Your friction disk is bouncing off of your pressure plate and fly wheel slightly engaging both at the same time but not.
This is the cause of your burning clutch and shudder.
Why would this happen and why is it not a mechanical problem?
You stated you have bubbles to no end... Your master cyl. attached to your peddle is strong.... very strong. slave cyl not so much.
You depress the peddle the master is doing its job pushing that slave until your clutch disengages and your slave is doing its job... until... the slave cyl is supposed to release. But its a bastard and decided to get stuck and the big bully master is pulling its hardest to rip that fluid back but actually the slave says no and your pulling air through your slave seals. Your slave is an a**hole. replace that hoe.
This is only correct if the above assumptions and understandings of your situation are true... just make sure your master isnt leaking into you foot well first..
Audi tech that happens to love s2ks
#7
If symptoms are correctly understood. Randomly one day your clutch started acting as you described, no repairs took place no parts changed or leaks found and clutch peddle feels somewhat normal.
Imagine holding your clutch right at the point of engagement and revving over 3k. Your friction disk is bouncing off of your pressure plate and fly wheel slightly engaging both at the same time but not.
This is the cause of your burning clutch and shudder.
Why would this happen and why is it not a mechanical problem?
You stated you have bubbles to no end... Your master cyl. attached to your peddle is strong.... very strong. slave cyl not so much.
You depress the peddle the master is doing its job pushing that slave until your clutch disengages and your slave is doing its job... until... the slave cyl is supposed to release. But its a bastard and decided to get stuck and the big bully master is pulling its hardest to rip that fluid back but actually the slave says no and your pulling air through your slave seals. Your slave is an a**hole. replace that hoe.
This is only correct if the above assumptions and understandings of your situation are true... just make sure your master isnt leaking into you foot well first..
Audi tech that happens to love s2ks
Imagine holding your clutch right at the point of engagement and revving over 3k. Your friction disk is bouncing off of your pressure plate and fly wheel slightly engaging both at the same time but not.
This is the cause of your burning clutch and shudder.
Why would this happen and why is it not a mechanical problem?
You stated you have bubbles to no end... Your master cyl. attached to your peddle is strong.... very strong. slave cyl not so much.
You depress the peddle the master is doing its job pushing that slave until your clutch disengages and your slave is doing its job... until... the slave cyl is supposed to release. But its a bastard and decided to get stuck and the big bully master is pulling its hardest to rip that fluid back but actually the slave says no and your pulling air through your slave seals. Your slave is an a**hole. replace that hoe.
This is only correct if the above assumptions and understandings of your situation are true... just make sure your master isnt leaking into you foot well first..
Audi tech that happens to love s2ks
I've been monitoring the clutch fluid level and its holding strong
the car went through a few months where it would sit for periods of time without being ran because i was off at schools or in the field
i kinda suspected the slave cylinder might be an issue just wanted to get opinions first
Going to try the method of removing the slave and if that doesnt work ill replace the slave all together
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#8
replaced the Clutch slave cylinder
spent hours trying to bleed it with the same results
ENDLESS BUBBLES
i even removed the slave cylinder from the transmission and held the bleeder high as i could
the bubbles kept coming rapidly but there was no end to them.
after about a large bottle of brake fluid i figured it wasnt going to end and tightened everything back up
the master cylinder isnt leaking but could it still be bad and cause my symptoms or is it just need a good bleed somehow??
spent hours trying to bleed it with the same results
ENDLESS BUBBLES
i even removed the slave cylinder from the transmission and held the bleeder high as i could
the bubbles kept coming rapidly but there was no end to them.
after about a large bottle of brake fluid i figured it wasnt going to end and tightened everything back up
the master cylinder isnt leaking but could it still be bad and cause my symptoms or is it just need a good bleed somehow??
#9
The last time I had endless air in my braking system (dirt bike), i ran trough 2 bottles of fluid. This was my first time I changed braking fluid. I ended up taking the whole system apart, just to find out that the calipter was leaking air by the piston in the calipter.
Did not show any signs of leaking fluid, but when it was covered in braking fluid, i saw air getting sucked in. Took it apart and replaced the seals, after that it worked like a charm.
I think that your slave is leaking air, or that you are doing something wrong ... Did an exchange of clutch fluid today with gravity and a clear hose and had no air bubbles.
I did however notice that when the bleeder was barly open, there were some bubbles. How much do you unscrew the bleeder? I think my was about 1-2 complete turns...
Did not show any signs of leaking fluid, but when it was covered in braking fluid, i saw air getting sucked in. Took it apart and replaced the seals, after that it worked like a charm.
I think that your slave is leaking air, or that you are doing something wrong ... Did an exchange of clutch fluid today with gravity and a clear hose and had no air bubbles.
I did however notice that when the bleeder was barly open, there were some bubbles. How much do you unscrew the bleeder? I think my was about 1-2 complete turns...
#10
i got a brand new slave cylinder installed
and i break it open maybe a quarter of a turn...
The wrench wont go any further because of the transmission but it shouldn't need to be opened anymore i would think
im wondering if my master cylinder is leaking in air ...
and i break it open maybe a quarter of a turn...
The wrench wont go any further because of the transmission but it shouldn't need to be opened anymore i would think
im wondering if my master cylinder is leaking in air ...