S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Engine Bay Tuck Over Winter...

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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #11  
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Alright so i was screwing around and un sealed the fuel rail and got a nose full of fumes. I tightened it back up with the 3 nuts shown in the picture below. Did i screw anything up or am i still golden?


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Is there anything i can do with these 2 ugly things?
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by S2K-F8
If you would like any other/better photos let me know

Scott-

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Also,
When i tried setting up my throttle cable like you have it i had an issue with the throttle sticking. Whats your secret?
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by S2K-F8' timestamp='1317263732




Hope that helps you out a bit...feel free to PM me if you have any other questions!!

Scott-

Hmmmm
It looks like your conectors are slightly more angled than mine? Here is what im working with... I just dont have enough reach with the amount of slack given

Edit:
After looking at your picture a little more i realize you have the cover plate on the left of that pictures instead of the part that i have that is part of the non existant air pump assembly. I think that allowed you to snake the wires by right off the bat unlike mine i had to start after the first plug. I know the picture i took shows the wires going in and out but i was just experimenting. I am having the cover made so i can take that ugly part off hopefully that will give me the slack i need..

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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bnag0
Originally Posted by S2K-F8' timestamp='1317189929' post='21015170


If you would like any other/better photos let me know

Scott-



Also,
When i tried setting up my throttle cable like you have it i had an issue with the throttle sticking. Whats your secret?
Both ports on my valve cover now route to a vented catch can.

My vacuum lines off the IM are routed down and under the IM. A lot of the hardlines have been removed. The 2 larger lines that are side by side (the ones you circled) are now used for my Blow off valve and boost control solenoid.

As far as you removing (partially) the fuel rail, you should be good as long as the injectors seated properly when you tightened it back down. The opaque cover over the banjo fitting (fuel supply) can be removed, you will be left with just a metal piece (I painted mine black). Not much you can do with the stock FPR...I guess you could paint it (or buy an aftermarket one).

Can't remember exactly how I did the throttle cable, but I know that I modified (i.e. cut) one of the stock brackets that hold it in place then moved it and mounted it on the side of the ABS control unit.

Scott-
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 09:40 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by bnag0
Originally Posted by DFWs2k' timestamp='1317096686' post='21009971
my contribution:

if anyone else wants to delete their air pump, PM me

Uh,

Possible link?

Thanks!
I have an Izze kit that I don't need since I have KPRO, so up for sale for a little cheaper than through him
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 12:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bnag0
Originally Posted by S2K-F8' timestamp='1317263732




Hope that helps you out a bit...feel free to PM me if you have any other questions!!

Scott-

Hmmmm
It looks like your conectors are slightly more angled than mine? Here is what im working with... I just dont have enough reach with the amount of slack given

Edit:
After looking at your picture a little more i realize you have the cover plate on the left of that pictures instead of the part that i have that is part of the non existant air pump assembly. I think that allowed you to snake the wires by right off the bat unlike mine i had to start after the first plug. I know the picture i took shows the wires going in and out but i was just experimenting. I am having the cover made so i can take that ugly part off hopefully that will give me the slack i need..

Yea, you might gain some slack when you put that air pump plate on. I rotated my injectors so that the plug was sitting at around 10 o'clock (looking at them from drivers side fender). I also have aftermarket injectors with plug-n-play pigtails, so that gives me some extra slack also.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:09 AM
  #17  
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Managed to clean it up Wires are pretty snug though.

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Thanks for the help!

More to come.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #18  
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So after adding an oil catch can and removing the air pump my FIPK tube is left with (2) ugly plugged ports sticking out. This bothers me. I was almost thinking about doing a really short intake tube setup like i have seen on a few cars but that would mean i would be doing away with a lot of custom parts i spent countless hours on making just for the intake. I don't think im ready to part with them yet. Soooooooo i was thinking about cutting the ports off and maybe doing a wrap on the intake tube since i am not a fan of the bright K&N label as well. Ive seen a lot of people wrap with a foil like material i like the looks of header wrap. I might do it the same way i did my AC lines a heat protective foil with header wrap over top. This will not be for performance, just appearance. I have been trying to find a picture of a header wrapped FIPK but had no luck. My only worry is that the header wrap would hold heat in once it were warmed up. If so would it make much of a difference with the air rushing through it?

What are your thoughts?

Example of the foil wrap
Front View


Example of the header wrap
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...fujita-002jpg/
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