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Originally Posted by kstokell,Jul 13 2004, 04:53 PM
"honda9krpm" what do you mean by the "front drive axle", do I also need to remove the interior gear shift etc?
Kevin
sorry, I think that was a lapse of concentration
I think it's known as the ???? steering rack. You might want to check with xviper for the proper term as I am not very mechanically articulate
It's the rack that the EPS and the engine mounts sit on. It is bolted to the chassis of the car. It's the thing that stop you from dropping the engine directly into the ground....I hope that help
My car was done on 4 jack stands too. It's doable if you have a good helper. Fireball's car was done by tilting the engine. It was very difficult to connect the gear box into the engine with this method. If you drop the ?rack, engine and box then it's easier for the installation process. You can then drop the engine through the engine bay directly into ground. Connect the box and engine on the ground and then lift+jack up both of them. Bolt the box in and reinstall the ?rack.
Good luck
Here are my recommended items
1. sleeves
2. forged pistons + rods
3. hondata gasket
4. titanium valve retainers and aftermarket valve springs
the others are up to you to choose. You sounds like you know what you are doing anyway.....just a tad paranoid like the rest of us on this forum
Originally Posted by honda9krpm,Jul 13 2004, 04:28 AM
It's the rack that the EPS and the engine mounts sit on. It is bolted to the chassis of the car. It's the thing that stop you from dropping the engine directly into the ground....I hope that help
I think we're talking about disconnecting the steering column at that little universal joint in the engine bay. It is covered by a little rubber (or plastic) boot.
Doing this on jackstands is an extreme challenge and you are far braver than I have been so far. I wish you the best of luck. You've got some WORK ahead of you.
I've ordered a complete new short block with ACT clutch and "hondata" inlet gasket. All this should arrive in about two weeks, so it's time to get the old stuff out.
I decided to do this completely alone to see if was possible and sure enough I managed it. So if you find yourself alone on a desert Island and you need to replace the short block in your S2000 it can be done.
Here are the pics to prove it, you'll have to take my word that nobody helped!
Valve Cover Off
SC and Cylinder Head Off
Ready for LIft Off
We Have Separation
We've cleared the Gantry
Seperation Complete
Job Done
What a big hole!!
EASY PEASY !!!
Now all I've got to do is build the new one in, I'll let you know how I get on!
I think the consensus is that cylinder 4 failure is mainly seen on cars from MY 00/01 and was initially caused by poor oil feed to the sprayers under the pistons.
To fix this a recall was put out in Europe to fit new bolts, this was not done in the USA.
This lack of oil caused the piston to overheat and score the cylinder, I think cyl4 is worst affected as it is furthest from the pump and therefor has the lowest pressure.
In my case the bolts had been changed and the cause was I think sustained high speed driving with a super charger fitted. I think the oil probably got to hot and thin and was just not able to do it's job.
For some reason, perhaps better materials the newer engines do not seem to have the same problem. At least I hope my new one is a little more reliable.
"honda9krpm" yes my piston is flapping around like a fish out of water. I've decided to fit a complete new shortblock. This will let me rebuild the old one for some serious HP next year!
By the way, I got the engine out without having to drop the gearbox!