Engine seems very warm
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Engine seems very warm
Recently purchased the car and it wasn't in the best shape when I got it. I usually only drive it for short periods that are less than 15 mile drives. The engine and engine bay seem to get extremely warm after just a regular drive down to get gas and back. The temp gauge shows 3 blocks and never goes over. I was dealing with a coolant leak from a smaller old hose, but I got that replaced. I can drive it for 15min, park it outside in ~50°f weather for 30-40min, and the fenders will still be warm if I touch them. Is it normal for these cars to be that hot? I'm not extremely mechanical inclined, but can do some regular diy maintenance and replacements. What can I do to test to see if I have a problem or not?
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I Recently purchased the car, and it wasn't in the best shape when I got it. I usually only drive it for short periods that are less than 15 mile drives. The engine and engine bay seem to get extremely warm after just a regular drive down to get gas and back. The temp gauge shows 3 blocks and never goes over. I was dealing with a coolant leak from a smaller old hose, but I got that replaced. I can drive it for 15min, park it outside in ~50°f weather for 30-40min, and the fenders will still be warm if I touch them. Is it normal for these cars to be that hot? I'm not extremely mechanical inclined, but can do some regular diy maintenance and replacements. What can I do to test to see if I have a problem or not?
Just scan your engine, radiator, etc., and see if the temp results match your gauge (it probably will, most of the time).
This should allay your fears.
Last edited by windhund116; Feb 23, 2024 at 05:02 AM.
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
The temp gauge says that the coolant temp it can measure is OK.
Does the car have any heat shielding missing?
Maybe have it looked over by a reputable shop which services S2000's. Hoowever, I would strongly advise posting the shop's recommended services here before moving forward. It seems like a lot of shops are more liable to ruin an S2000 than fix the underlying issues.
Does the car have any heat shielding missing?
Maybe have it looked over by a reputable shop which services S2000's. Hoowever, I would strongly advise posting the shop's recommended services here before moving forward. It seems like a lot of shops are more liable to ruin an S2000 than fix the underlying issues.
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If you turn heat to full blast, does it hurt your fingers if you hold them up to vent? If not, clear sign that coolant is low. You're at severe risk of a serious overheating incident that cab happen without warning at any time. Many of our engines have been destroyed from this.
Our engines are notoriously difficult to purge air from the coolant system. You already had a leak that would have introduced air. So I suspect this is your issue. Take it seriously.
The easiest way to fully purge air is to use a Lisle style funnel. It secures in place of radiator cap. You park with nose uphill, fill funnel, and let engine idle till fully warm. Any roiling of coolant in funnel is air purging.
Once its warm, you rev engine to like 2.5k rpm for like 30 sec, to get more air forced out. Then you can loosen the front air purge valve next to front, drivers side of valve cover, looks kinda like an acorn nut with a nipple. Crack open while engine running, wait until fountain of coolant spews out. Anything less than drinking fountain looking stream is air purging.
Then confirm you're done by doing burn fingers test. Our hvac capable of extra hot and extra cold so its useful with top down. Hence able to burn fingers.
Our engines are notoriously difficult to purge air from the coolant system. You already had a leak that would have introduced air. So I suspect this is your issue. Take it seriously.
The easiest way to fully purge air is to use a Lisle style funnel. It secures in place of radiator cap. You park with nose uphill, fill funnel, and let engine idle till fully warm. Any roiling of coolant in funnel is air purging.
Once its warm, you rev engine to like 2.5k rpm for like 30 sec, to get more air forced out. Then you can loosen the front air purge valve next to front, drivers side of valve cover, looks kinda like an acorn nut with a nipple. Crack open while engine running, wait until fountain of coolant spews out. Anything less than drinking fountain looking stream is air purging.
Then confirm you're done by doing burn fingers test. Our hvac capable of extra hot and extra cold so its useful with top down. Hence able to burn fingers.
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If you turn heat to full blast, does it hurt your fingers if you hold them up to vent? If not, clear sign that coolant is low. You're at severe risk of a serious overheating incident that cab happen without warning at any time. Many of our engines have been destroyed from this.
Our engines are notoriously difficult to purge air from the coolant system. You already had a leak that would have introduced air. So I suspect this is your issue. Take it seriously.
The easiest way to fully purge air is to use a Lisle style funnel. It secures in place of radiator cap. You park with nose uphill, fill funnel, and let engine idle till fully warm. Any roiling of coolant in funnel is air purging.
Once its warm, you rev engine to like 2.5k rpm for like 30 sec, to get more air forced out. Then you can loosen the front air purge valve next to front, drivers side of valve cover, looks kinda like an acorn nut with a nipple. Crack open while engine running, wait until fountain of coolant spews out. Anything less than drinking fountain looking stream is air purging.
Then confirm you're done by doing burn fingers test. Our hvac capable of extra hot and extra cold so its useful with top down. Hence able to burn fingers.
Our engines are notoriously difficult to purge air from the coolant system. You already had a leak that would have introduced air. So I suspect this is your issue. Take it seriously.
The easiest way to fully purge air is to use a Lisle style funnel. It secures in place of radiator cap. You park with nose uphill, fill funnel, and let engine idle till fully warm. Any roiling of coolant in funnel is air purging.
Once its warm, you rev engine to like 2.5k rpm for like 30 sec, to get more air forced out. Then you can loosen the front air purge valve next to front, drivers side of valve cover, looks kinda like an acorn nut with a nipple. Crack open while engine running, wait until fountain of coolant spews out. Anything less than drinking fountain looking stream is air purging.
Then confirm you're done by doing burn fingers test. Our hvac capable of extra hot and extra cold so its useful with top down. Hence able to burn fingers.
Is there any other way of knowing if this is the issue I have?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 6
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If you turn heat to full blast, does it hurt your fingers if you hold them up to vent? If not, clear sign that coolant is low. You're at severe risk of a serious overheating incident that cab happen without warning at any time. Many of our engines have been destroyed from this.
Our engines are notoriously difficult to purge air from the coolant system. You already had a leak that would have introduced air. So I suspect this is your issue. Take it seriously.
The easiest way to fully purge air is to use a Lisle style funnel. It secures in place of radiator cap. You park with nose uphill, fill funnel, and let engine idle till fully warm. Any roiling of coolant in funnel is air purging.
Once its warm, you rev engine to like 2.5k rpm for like 30 sec, to get more air forced out. Then you can loosen the front air purge valve next to front, drivers side of valve cover, looks kinda like an acorn nut with a nipple. Crack open while engine running, wait until fountain of coolant spews out. Anything less than drinking fountain looking stream is air purging.
Then confirm you're done by doing burn fingers test. Our hvac capable of extra hot and extra cold so its useful with top down. Hence able to burn fingers.
Our engines are notoriously difficult to purge air from the coolant system. You already had a leak that would have introduced air. So I suspect this is your issue. Take it seriously.
The easiest way to fully purge air is to use a Lisle style funnel. It secures in place of radiator cap. You park with nose uphill, fill funnel, and let engine idle till fully warm. Any roiling of coolant in funnel is air purging.
Once its warm, you rev engine to like 2.5k rpm for like 30 sec, to get more air forced out. Then you can loosen the front air purge valve next to front, drivers side of valve cover, looks kinda like an acorn nut with a nipple. Crack open while engine running, wait until fountain of coolant spews out. Anything less than drinking fountain looking stream is air purging.
Then confirm you're done by doing burn fingers test. Our hvac capable of extra hot and extra cold so its useful with top down. Hence able to burn fingers.
Joined: Aug 2012
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Do you have a hill? Do you know how to use Amazon? Do you know how to remove a radiator cap?
If Yes to all, you can do this yourself.
Park uphill. Remove radiator cap, install Lisle funnel you bought at Amazon, fill with Honda premix coolant you bought Amazon. Start engine. Let it fullt warm up. Rev it to like 3k rpm for 30 seconds.
Make sure funnel stays full entire time.
Done.
My heat keeps me warm top down 30F. So warming interior at 40F isn't saying much.
If Yes to all, you can do this yourself.
Park uphill. Remove radiator cap, install Lisle funnel you bought at Amazon, fill with Honda premix coolant you bought Amazon. Start engine. Let it fullt warm up. Rev it to like 3k rpm for 30 seconds.
Make sure funnel stays full entire time.
Done.
My heat keeps me warm top down 30F. So warming interior at 40F isn't saying much.
