Hey everyone-

Let me start off with a little introduction of my problem.

I have a MY00 turbocharged S2000. The Tial 50mm BOV is "flutterdumping"... here is what it sounds like. Its basically the BOV opening a little too late, leading to some compressor surge before it does open.

Here is flutterdump:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEUWEsqoWz8

I am currently only reading -9 to -10 PSI of vacuum according to my boost gauge at idle. It ups to -11 to -12 PSI during loaded deceleration. The spring is an 11 pound Tial spring. I tried a 9 pound Tial spring, but it had the same problem (but not as bad).

I am looking to consolidate my vacuum lines on the intake manifold to only those required to run. I have removed the secondary air pulse injection system already, as I am using AEM 1052u EMS.

I am wondering if the vacuum lines just forward of the FPR vacuum line is necessary anymore... According to the manual, it is for the "Evaporative Emissions Control Canister" and the corresponding "Evaporative Emissions Purge Valve". I am wondering if these can be deleted with the AEM EMS, or if they serve a more vital role.
Pic of the line I want to remove (the T'd line):


From what I have read, this is designed to vent the gas tank evaporation gases. Old cars from pre-1970 used to have vented gas caps. We now have sealed gas caps, and those fumes are now sucked from the tank into the burn mixture via the vacuum line.

I am trying to run my wastegate vacuum line off of the supply side of this (where it takes off from the manifold just forward of the FPR vacuum line) and the BOV off the return side (on the right side of the manifold just behind the throttle body).

Where I want to hook up BOV:


If I were to seal up this vacuum source from the Evap Emissions system, would my car blow up? Would I need to get a vented gas cap? Would it just build pressure until it vented into engine bay (as its no longer sucking)?

Just wondering the ramifications of removing this system. And I do not give a crap about emissions. The government can suck my tail-pipe!

And I have tried posting this in the FI forum. No one wants to say anything about the Evaporative Emissions Control Canister or the purge valve, and whether the car will run / blow up if I remove them.

Cheers!

John

 

Bump.

John

 

It's just that they made the system so convoluted for an average mechanic, and the check engine light very sensitive about it, that it costs a coupla hunnert just to diagnose the evap problem if it ever occurs. That's why few people are responding.

Sorry, I'm no help neither.

 

For the record, I was able to disconnect the vacuum supply line just rear of the throttle body (sealing off the T joint under the intake manifold) with no CEL. I am running AEM EMS 1052u. Apparently 1 vacuum source is enough...

BOV line is now on the nipple just rear of the throttle body with 11/32 line. Still surging with 11# spring. Swapped 9# spring in, and it worked great.

Called shop, and they are drop shipping me a 9# spring.

Cheers to those to read / contributed.

And it does not cost several hundred $ to diagnose a CEL... If you get the CEL, you know what you changed, so just put it back. Autozone scans the codes for free, and EMS owners have computers.

John

 

True enough, we are truly blessed to have a great community such as s2ki.com, with literally hundreds of man-years worth of experience among members. But what if it's someone's, say, cavalier or something, or like in the case of my computer-illiterate friend, Audi A4 1.8T. And the autozone (not knocking on them or anything) read the codes: 1. Cyl 1 misfire
2. Cyl 2 misfire
3. Cyl 3 misfire
4. Cyl 4 misfire
5. Random misfire.
6. (i forgot this one, something obscure, too).

What that guy was supposed to do? The stealership would surely have his arm and a leg before they came up with anything close to truth. Lucky for him, I pressed him for info, and he admitted that he'd put 87 gas in there just to save some money. I said, immediately get that gastank filled to the brim with 93, throw some octane booster in. It helped!

Case in point, it didn't cost him much to pull the codes, but it didn't help, and the dealership would prolly charge for new plugs, new plug coils, etc.

 

codes only tell you symptoms. Sometimes the the code is specific enough. A vacuum leak code should be specific enough to know to check the vacum lines... Misfires are different, as there are many different components that can lead to a misfire. A vacuum leak is a vacuum leak.

Cheers for your input, though. And I agre on this site as a major resource. Most in depth vehicle specific site I have found yet...

John