S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Even more broken retainers found

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:34 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Dec 8 2006, 05:24 PM
The retainer was so high, it was rubbing on the roller of the rocker. The hardened particles, or dust, etched a groove around the middle of one cam lobe.
Wow... I didn't realize the clearances were that small in there that the retainer could rise high enough to touch the roller before coming off completely.

So, I guess I stand corrected.
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 12:14 AM
  #162  
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just out of curiousity an OT question: on mxt_77's picture above, why are the gears that are connected to the camshafts two halve gears (or actually, more like 2/3, 1/3)? Does that have anything to do with the VTEC mechanism?
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 02:35 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by mxt_77,Dec 8 2006, 07:34 PM
I stand
Don't you have a computer chair?

Mbvt.....that has nothing to do with vtec. The back part of the gear is rubber/spring mounted to the front gear. It takes the play out of the gears and keeps the shock down.
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 06:53 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Dec 11 2006, 12:35 PM
Mbvt.....that has nothing to do with vtec. The back part of the gear is rubber/spring mounted to the front gear. It takes the play out of the gears and keeps the shock down.
thanks
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 11:38 PM
  #165  
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ok noob to this stuff here, and sorry to bump... but a recent thread brought this to my attention, and I believe its very important to ap1 owners.

Anyways let me start by saying I have never taken off the valve cover so far on any car, with that being said...

Does anyone have a pic on where the retainers and such are? like circled in a pic and what not?

Also I believe I asked before and somebody said the oil does NOT have to be changed after doing this, is that true? any precautions with dust... or anything? not like theres a sand storm in my garage or anything..

Last but not least, what should these bolts be torqued down to when re applying the valve cover. I could only imagine stripping one of those out...


TIA
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 11:49 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by B.Money,Oct 8 2007, 12:38 AM
Last but not least, what should these bolts be torqued down to when re applying the valve cover. I could only imagine stripping one of those out...
IMO, you have no business doing this if you can't answer that question. (Here's a hint: it's in the service manual available from helminc.com.)
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:28 AM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Oct 8 2007, 12:49 AM
IMO, you have no business doing this if you can't answer that question. (Here's a hint: it's in the service manual available from helminc.com.)
I may have no business doing this, but what does that have to do with not knowing the tq of a bolt off hand?

Sorry not to be rude or anything but everyone says its easy to check for this sort of thing, im not interested in changing one or anything like that. If not and they are wrong who should I take my car for to do this? my honda dealer has no idea on what they are doing, and I dont feel like driving 3 hours + down to a mechanic that will charge me for something I could have done on my own in my garage in 15 min.

Do I need a professional mechanic to remove the valve cover?
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:46 AM
  #168  
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Dude, I just told you where to find the answer. RTFM.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:07 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Oct 8 2007, 09:46 AM
Dude, I just told you where to find the answer. RTFM.
ok ok sorry dude thanks
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Nov 13 2006, 02:47 PM
For 2.2L, I'd do an initial valve adjustment at 10k miles minimum. Check the retainers at that point. As long as you know the car hasn't been serverly mis-shifted from that point on, I'd say your safe for another 75k miles and likely beyond.

This brings a question, maybe some of you can answer. Figure a 2.2L, wide open in third (8k rpm). Bang 2nd as fast as you can and dump the clutch. What RPM would the engine hit? (This is not recommended to try, just a math question )
Maybe I missed that before...So you advise getting the valves checked before 10k on a new engine and then let it go for that long. Is the idea that they could be miss-set at the factory and that the lash is pretty stable once broken in?

Second question, never having this engine apart, do you think that a Ti kit would be worthwhile in this engine, or just adding a new potential failure pt?

Thanks!
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