S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

F20c in ae71 corolla HELP!

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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 10:13 PM
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Default F20c in ae71 corolla HELP!

hey guys and girls. i am in the proccess of fitting an ap1 f20c into my ae71 corlla panel van. ( http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...20c-powered-E7 ) build thread for ur perusal.

for those that dont wish to read my long post, my questions are
:what kind of injectors do the different models of the s2000 come with. (low resistance open and hold or high resistance saturated)?
:i only hav 12v ign coming out of the main power wire on my injectors, am i supposed to hav 12v ign coming out of both of the wires in my injector plug? if not then how do i check the pulse wire is working. (injectors not opening)
:how do i check i havnt fried my ecu in any way,

now when i brought the car (driving shell) it didnt come with an ecu or cluster as the seller sent these up in the mail. since these got 'lost in the mail' i made him buy a new ecu and cluster to send me. so i am under the immpression that the ecu i got is from a different car.

back when i started all this i didnt know anything about the immobilizer. so plugged the ecu in and started the car up, car ran fine and drove fine, no lights on the dash or anything. now after doing more research as i got into the projec i learnt that the ecu is in correspondance with the immobilizer setup incuding the key. so by rights if i hav an ecu out of a different car the immobilizer should off been triggered and cut power to the fuel pump?? but as everything ran fine it got me thinking that maybe i do hav the original ecu.


now this is where it gets a little tricky and has me mind f@#ked. the looms needed to run the motor is the engine loom and the under dash harness that goes to the cluster. we know this because the conversion has been done a million times and thats what everyone says is needed, also my mate has completed this conversion in his ae86 using guids of the interwebs. the only plugs on the under dash loom that are needed are the plugs that connect to the cluster, the plug that connects to the ecu and the light blue plug that connects the two looms together. anything and everything inbetween isnt needed to run the motor. ive wired it up as my mates one is, so the constant 12v wires have constant 12v, the ignition 12v hav ignition power and the earths have a good ground.

now i double checked all the wires hav the neccesary power or grounds. checked the ressistance of the earth wires to make sure they hav good ground and they are 0.01 ohms which is spot on??


now when i try to start the car it cranks over fine and i get spark but my injectors arnt working. ive got 12v to the power side of the injector plug but nothing on the coloured wire side. is this how negative triggered injectors work?? if so how do i check that the trigger wire is getting power or how ever it work??

after doing some more research i hav discovered that there are two types of injectors for hondas. low resistance and high resistance. from what ive read all standard s2000 injectors are high resistor saturated types, can anyone confirm this? do different model s2k's come with differnt injector types?? cause what i am thinking, if the ecu really is from a different car, the injectors i hav are different to the ones needed to work with the ecu i got given?? thus not allowing them to open allowing fuel into the cylinder.

now, as the ecu has ran the car before, (for a long period of time, drove the car around and left it idle for ages) i know that it works with everything. so another thing that i could of done is cut something off of the loom that was neccesary to change the ohms to the correct reading for the injectors to work (resistor box)?? is there such a thing for the s2000??

i hav also checked for CEL error code and nothing comes up (thats if im doing it right)

so the last thing that may be possible is that ive fried something in the ecu somewhere along the line. how do u check that the ecu is fried?? the dash still lights up and i get spark so i figured the ecu was still fine??

many thanks in advance for those that can help in any way.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 12:33 PM
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Are you getting power to the fuel pump, can you hear it prime when you turn the key to on?

What led to the decision to remove the immobilizer system if the car ran fine without it? I feel like something in the immobilizer system (or what you removed of it) is causing your issue.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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i got the fuel pump connected straight to the battery on a switch. and the immobilizer system isnt part of the looms necessary to get the motor to run. im thinkin the same now about the immob chip being removed. but its been done so many times and no one has said they experianced any dramas. usually when the immob system claps out they snap the chip off and away they go. the motor isnt in an s2000 anymore if u didnt read that part lol
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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Different market PCM's are not wired like USDM cars. Knowing what car the PCM came from will be required.

S2ki also does not allow posts regarding immobillzer removal on the open forum. We don't support making it easy for thieves. If you must keep those details to PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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ok so PCM i looked up and is the powertrain control monitor. is this part of the ecu or is it its own thing??. and sorry about the mentioning the immobilizer
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 10:44 PM
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free bump for you because a.) i know little about all this technical stuff and b.) your project looks very cool and i would like to follow the progress.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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So now I hav a JDM ecu connected. Checked my ecu plugs again were getting the necessary power source or earths. All is good. Now, the car at the moment doesn't hav a fan belt on as I took the ac pump off and yet to get a shorter belt to eliminate this. Is there any sensors that run off of the fan belt that could be stopping it from starting??
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:38 AM
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It was a faulty knock sensor. Thanks for the help anyway.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by haveaparty
It was a faulty knock sensor. Thanks for the help anyway.
Interesting! Those ishes break if you look at them wrong... was yours snapped or just determined to be faulty? And you weren't throwing the CEL code for the knock sensor?
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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It was completely snapped off. It's been snapped off for a while but when doing a search to find what it was, was a fail. As I thought it was a oil sensor of some sort. And yes didn't throw any CEL codes for it. Only srs and seat belt codes. It did throw a crank angle sensor code but only once. And went through the rounds of it about 3 times.
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