S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

F20C increased redline

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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #11  
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Try hytech cams, adjust timing (and raise the idle off course), enlarge valves, change retainers, polish the head, port match everything, add ITB (may not be helpful for the red line, but better than nothing), add header and back piping etc, and be patient.

I have seen b18 civics making power around 10.000. Why f20c is considered to be max out at 9k?

Just be patient
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:21 PM
  #12  
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You will see increased sleave wear above 9.5k. If you do enough work on the top, open up the exhaust and have standalone tuning you should make power up to and above 9.5k.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:24 PM
  #13  
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The car I am building is emissions exempt, so it will be running custom long tube headers into a testpipe and a turndown, no worries about getting the air out. I also have a dry-sump system in place, will that curb the sleeve wear issue?

The concensus I am seeing is that 10,000rpm is pretty much the upper limit if I want to have any reasonable life out of the engine.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:28 PM
  #14  
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Define reasonable.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #15  
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The purpose of this car will be for HPDE's. I'd like to have at the MINIMUM a season's worth of events in without tearing the thing down.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BlownAP,Apr 16 2008, 05:04 PM
you can make power all the way past 9k. you will need the PROPER cams, at this point the only cams I have seen make power are the Hytech. Long wait and expensive but worth the money.


Hytech products are a very long wait...6mo to a year from order.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #17  
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Try hytech cams, adjust timing (and raise the idle off course), enlarge valves, change retainers, polish the head, port match everything, add ITB (may not be helpful for the red line, but better than nothing), add header and back piping etc, and be patient.
I'm not sure if this is correct but I heard that increasing the size of the valves on a naturally aspirated motor is not always a good thing. I was told that it decreases the velocity of the incoming air. Not sure if its true but its a thought.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 08:13 PM
  #18  
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You could always run it at 10k for a couple events and take the head off to check for wear. There may be some issues as well at 10k. If it were me I would run no higher than 9,500. Even that is quite high and I wouldn't want to run it there for long periods. I run my AP2 at 8400 redline.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 07:50 AM
  #19  
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^^
what he said, theres a guy around here whos sn is Sideways who has a built /vortech sc'd motor and he spins it up to 9,500 just fine. I wouldnt go past that though
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 08:55 AM
  #20  
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i personally think that the rod ratio and the pistons speeds are ok for this motor. gotta remember that we have one of the most robust motors ever built by honda. everything is forged...tehy use slipper pistons (short skirts) oil squirters, a MASSIVE "Main Girdle" which is like the entire bottom half of the motor. really robust cam towers...which is a different venture from other motors that honda has made.

i personally think you can spin it to say.....10 to 10200 easily.

as for power you arent going to find that much that high, but if you are looking for the ability to stretrch a gear then ok.

you might want to think about the ap2 trans with the ap1 motor for HPDE's. little longer 6th.

lastly think about this....why do you want to spin that high to begin with, what advantage is that going to get you? stay in gear longer? maybe think about switching to a longer diff. also what about oiling at that speed? maybe think about a dry sump setup.
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