F20c Retainers - Consensus?
Hah yeah that makes sense, I hear people over rev constantly while heel/toeing in videos. I AutoXed it once with an audi club, if I ever go SCCA would it be wrong to just lie about the retainers? Anyway I'm still not clear on the reasoning for NOT using ap2 retainers for exhaust side and only intake side. I'm changing stem seals for good measure, I'm changing all 16 retainers one way or another.
AP2 intake retainers (in an AP1) will survive an over-rev that will otherwise bend your exhaust valves. AP1 exhaust valve retainers generally will survive a mechanical over-rev up to the point the valves bend (replacing them at that point then becomes a given). Therefore, there is no benefit in installing heavier exhaust retainers to prevent cracking... the valves will be toast before the exhaust retainers will crack in the first place, and installing heavier retainers will just lower the point at which this happens. The OEM AP1 exhaust retainers work perfectly well - it's the intake ones that need beefing up.
Obviously this is only an issue from a mechanical over-rev, it is not caused from simply mashing your foot on the throttle pedal.
Hah yeah that makes sense, I hear people over rev constantly while heel/toeing in videos. I AutoXed it once with an audi club, if I ever go SCCA would it be wrong to just lie about the retainers? Anyway I'm still not clear on the reasoning for NOT using ap2 retainers for exhaust side and only intake side. I'm changing stem seals for good measure, I'm changing all 16 retainers one way or another.
Also, if you do miss-shift you will know it. Some ask - what about if a prior owner miss-shifted causing a mechanical over-rev? Well, that is why you inspect your retainers if the ap1 is new to you. I've had my current S for about 10K miles and I know my retainers are not cracked. I am not planning to change them unless I miss-shift. I plan to leave well enough alone.
If I'm going through the trouble of removing them for inspection I'm going to change them. Previous owner claims 100k on this engine but idk. Isn't it possible for a crack to start and not be visible? Regardless if I take them out I want new ones in. If I don't ever plan on trying to get more RPM out of it then is there any reason to not go with AP2s on the intake?
Since you can inspect them without removing them do that and if they're good just follow the previous advice. If you need to replace one or some it makes sense to me to replace both sides especially on a high mileage used car with unknown over-rev history. Years ago I bent a push rod on my 396SS engine. Of course we inspected them all...and replaced them all since the heads were off. Life is so much simpler without overhead cams and chains. 
-- Chuck

-- Chuck












