I know there have been a number of threads on the topic, and I've read as many as show up in search and Google results, but I don't feel like I have concrete answers. I'll be getting an '04 F22c swapped into my '03 track car chassis, using the '03 ECU. In my research, I'm seeing people talk about running too lean, needing VAFC tuning, AFRs, widebands, etc. and I'm only starting to understand what any of that means through more research but I'm still lost. My main questions are:

1. Will I be able to safely drive the car home from the shop and around town without touching the ECU or tuning?
2. If yes, will I be able to race the car without ECU or tuning?
3. If no, what is the most reliable, but affordable way to accomplish this? My research suggests AEM EMS v2 would be overkill for an NA car. If I need to tune, I'll probably want to lower VTEC, but also lower the rev limit to 8.5k if possible. The only power mods I have are breather mods (FIPK, PLC header, Berk HFC, HKS single exhaust).
4. What should my shopping list be if I'm going to do this right? (e.g. tuning bits, gauges, harnesses, etc)
5. I upgraded my oil pan and TCT to a Blacktrax baffled pan and the Billman TCT. Can those be swapped on to the F22?
6. Bonus - Is anyone interested in buying an '01 F20 with low oil pressure?

I've been feeling the pain of tracking the car but lacking in-depth knowledge of proper set up and upkeep of a track car, so I'm here asking questions to prevent losing a third motor. Any help would be very appreciated.

 

Buy a used 04-05 AP2 ECU on eBay - they're cheap.

Go to Honda and get the key programmed to the new computer.

My procedure was to un-bolt my stock ECU and let it sit in the footwell. Then drive to Honda... install the new ECU in the Honda dealer parking lot....and ask them to program it. Easy peasy.

If your "new" ECU comes with the mated key, I'm fairly sure you can fool the immobilizer by taping the mated key to the column and then buying a non-chipped version of your key to start/run the car.

You'll be fine driving it around on an AP1 ECU to get back from the shop, but I wouldn't rev a 2.2 to 9K and expect it to last.

So...best to get an ECU that limits to 8200RPM, for that reason alone.

I'm sure someone will make a dubious comment on how they've been revving their 2.2 to 9K with ZERO problems for 700 years. But...I certainly wouldn't.

 

#5) yes.

 

#2 - You definitely DO NOT want to race the car with the AP1 ECU on an AP2 F22C.

As B said, get a used AP2 ECU off eBay and get the key programmed.

 

I have an 03 with an 07 engine in my car. If this is s track car, then why would you put a stock ECU back? Buy a stand alone unit and tune the car. No need to worry about Honda or keys at that point.

The added power from being able to tune it will make all the difference on track. Yes you can drive it home on a stock f20 ECU. I wouldn't worry about any baffle pans at this point. But yes, the pans from either f20/22 bolt up to each other.

Reliable NA track build:

Intake
Test pipe
Exhaust
Tuneable ECU
Wheels
Good tires
Good pads
Dot4 high temperature brake fluid

Then add more as you get faster (rollbar, harnesses, HANS, aero, hardtop etc)


Davo

 

If you drive your race car back and forth to the track(s) then it will need to be street legal including registration which will require some sort of street legal ECU and probably smog.

If you're trailering it a good aftermarket ECU will provide the most flexibility although some race classes have OEM parts requirements that may or may not allow non-OE engines or ECUs.

-- Chuck

 

I currently have a 00 with an AP2 (2005) in my car and its my DD. Currently, using my 00 ECU with no issues. For what I read having a 00 ECU is much preferred when it comes to doing an AP2 swap. You can swap out the TCT and baffled pan to your new engine.

 

Similar to ChuloNica, have an 00 with an 05. Been with this setup for 20-30k miles. No issues. Have a shift beeper at 8400. Also have a vafc to lower Vtec and lean it out on top since the 00 ecu loves to run rich on top.