thanks btw. i guess. hehe i try to stay positive, and make things understandable. its hard to get what your saying acrossed to others, without voice inflection, or the ingredient of hand gestures and facial expression.

 

Just keeping the conversation going

Life @ the drag strip is hard, no doubt.
Oil temps would have been high, much MUCH higher then what you would see driving spirited or at the track, because there is less airflow around the diff.
High oil temps = thinner oil.
If you have a thicker oil to begin with....

How did the thrust washers look?
All grooved and bashed?

Do those 9 sec. cars run 7" diffs with only a quart of oil?
You've talked to Road Rage so you must also know he tested LE-607 and found the additive ALMASOL gave it the highest EP ratings he had ever seen.
Tough to beat.

To make a drag diff out of the stock diff you should get some oil circulation & oil cooler IMO.
Take pictures

 

[QUOTE]Just keeping the conversation going

 

S2oooNvegas Posted on May 5 2007, 03:30 AM
Point taken
Agreed

 

S2000nooovegas - I would greatly appeciate your thoughts and comments on putting a strong PP in WITH the CDV.

I'm also a proponent of the CDV, but after multiple high rpms shifts, it does start to make the clutch slip more evident, and I'm worried that I might glaze the clutch. All input would be greatly appeciated.

And thanks for your "research" in this field! Looks like that diff took the mother of all abuse and held pretty damned well - 60k miles on a diff with constant laucnhing is impressive. How they heck did your clutch hold up?

 

hey Dave.

 

stage 2 pressure plate, with stock ap2 disk. the CDV is the saviour. it keeps the shock down, and with the stage 2 plate, allows the perfect engage.
IM sure, had i not ran these lame bald ass tires, and wheelhopped the piss out of it, this would have never happened. but it was my fault and i accept it.
there is no sign of metal fatigue at all, no discolor, no heating, just plain cold chipped. and happend all at once, after some serious wheelhop.

 

What about heavy duty aftermarket pressure plate, NO CDV, and some driving skill.

 

no amount of driving skill can make up for fractions of a second.
thats what most are missing in this equation. once that disk bites, then it sends the shock down the drivetrain, and hammers it. wherever slack is, the most wear will occur. if you have something slowing the last millifractameter of engagement that allows time for the slack to be taken up, and the car starts to transfer weight before the clutch is all the way hooked up. then you just shoot out of the hole. cause the car is ready to do so. if you just shock it before the car tilts, you get wheelhop, and wheelspin, and you lost the race.
thats simple launch technology. its all in timing, like everything else in the world.

 

I don't launch my car out of the hole, so I like my current setup (AP1). If I wanted to, I could bang a gear upon upshifting, but the technique that I utilize which involves proper throttle/clutch timing prevents me from slamming parts together

I can shift pretty darn fast, but at the same time, I need to utilize proper throttle and clutch timing, thus giving me pretty good upchanges. When I shift really fast, if alter my timing of the clutch and throttle pedals and just mash on the throttle, my clutch feels just slightly soft, but on the street, or even during a simple track day, there is no reason or need to shift in such a fashion.

I totally understand where you are coming from in regards to the CDV. I have an AP1, you have an AP2. I'm a road racer, you tear it up on the dragstrip