i dunno I checked up on prices for all the stuff and its over a grands worth of fix its. ima replace the arms and see where that takes me. as for the rotor I should be able to feel the difference if its the rotor right? feels normal just theres a squeak

 

i just posted on this in anotehr thread


control arms dont normally bend in tis situation, its the knuckle that gets a bent arm.

the a-arms are pretty stout on our cars. i did this exact thing and it durned out to be a knuckle i bent everything aligned out perfectly and there was no damage beyond the wheel and knuckle.

 

dont just start replacing parts....

measure the distance from ball joints/ hard points to hard points on your good side and then measure on the messed up side. it will tell you instantly what is bent. heres another trick...


did you ahve toe out on the rear or in?


lift the rear of the car

take off both wheels

look at the knuckles...

one "arm" of the knuckle will be almost touching the knuckle itself on the bummed up side and the other side (the good side) will have like an inch or 2 of clearance.

i almost gaurentee it.

knuckle cost me like 250 new from the dealer (big mistake on my part but they were the fastest to get the part) 100 for the ebaring and then labor was like.....250 or something not including alignment cause i bought the lifetime alignment thing from firestone.

the wheel on the other hand was like 470 bucks new

 

I had that positive camber problem too. Mine developed after I slid into a curb sideways hitting the right rear wheel first, bending front and back wheels and having to replace most of the rear suspension, including that box-like subframe. Looked kind of funny from the back, like a dog about to relieve himself, just begining to raise his right rear leg.
The tred on my first set of bridgestones was getting thin at 11K miles. The road was suddenly wet as I turned the corner, the rear started to go, I caught it and thought I had escaped, but I was still sliding sideways when I ran out of road, slammed into the curb, bounced off and kept on going.
It cost nearly $5K six years ago, including repairing the caved in rocker panels.
I should have replaced those Bridgestones.

 

I've heard a lot of stories over the years about worn out tires conrtributing to accidents like this. 11k miles on OEM SO2s is quite a lot. It's a lot less expensive to replace a set of rear tires than fix bent suspension components.

With regard to what's bent, the A-arms are not immune. Since it sounds like your mechanics cannot help with your situation, I would disassemble the rear suspension and compare (with accurate measurements) the removed parts to known good units. Then, replace what's bent. A less expensive source for your parts would be a recycling yard.

Just so you don't feel quite so bad, here's a really messed up rear suspension:

 

T'was an expensive lesson about treadwear and traction. I'd had the car for only 1 year and had new tires on order. After Bridgestone set #2, I went to Michelin Pilot A/S in the (245/50 in back), and never looked back. Unlike FL we have winters here...actualy, we're having one now.
Pilots last around 24K, aren't quite as sticky but are very much more directional. I just put on set #3.
RU a doc in real life?

 

Ph.D. in Marine Biology, specializing on coral reefs, hence Coral Doc .

 

eh least you arent like a botanist or soemthing (fukin dr. phill my ass)





^^edit....


that didnt come out right

 

I did the same thing, its most likely hubs and spindles. its very common.

 

I also did the same thing month ago, had to replace bent knuckle Lower and uper arms are strong enough, they don't bent, they crack.