FIXED - P0122 and P0410
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Arizona - Northwest valley
FIXED - P0122 and P0410
UPDATE FROM LAST POST:
The P0122 code was a bad TPS, I got a new one from OmniPower for $72 including shipping. The owner was very nice with assisting me to ship it to a different address than is on my card; we used paypal. Make sure you line up the prong in the TPS in between the two prongs on the throttle body. You want the TPS voltage set to 4.50 V +/- .01 at WOT. Don't worry about the voltage at idle/closed, that will come with setting the more important 4.50 V. To clear the code, pull the back-up 7.5A fuse under the dash, wait 5 minutes, put it back in, wait 5 minutes, start the car, let it idle without touching it and all accessories off (this lets the ECU relearn the idle). The CEL will come back on immediately as you touch the gas pedal if it isn't fixed.
The P0410 code ended up being a blown 60A fuse under the hood which was caused by the Air Pump blowing out (exploding) in the driver side fender well. I ordered a Air Pump Delete Kit/Emulator from Ballade Sports for $40 including shipping. This lets you completely take the Air Pump out of the car and tricks the ECU into thinking it is working perfectly. It's either this $40 kit or the $500 Air Pump. Links for both items I bought are below.
TPS: http://omnipowerusa.com/store/#!/Omnipower-S2000-TPS-Sensor/p/25508454/category=5937086
Air Pump Emulator: https://www.balladesports.com/produc...ypass-emulator
And if you decide to replace the air pump and need a new fuse, to save you the trouble of finding what it is and where to get it, here you go..
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-a...e-link/32379/#
You just have to cut the end pieces to fit inside the fuse box, unless you can find the proper fuse from the factory. I'm sure the stealership has it on sale for how much I make in a year instead of $4 at AutoZone if you're really lazy and like being at a stealership.
ORIGINAL POST:
"Replaced, but not Fixed."
That should be a meme for how often it happens to dumb people (like me!).
This is my daily, so please help if you know what you're doing with electricity! haha
Once upon a time... I got the CEL on for P0122. Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor or something like that. Of course, I've been driving it all slow and steady because it'll "miss a beat" if I push it too hard over 3k, sometimes even with the slightest throttle. I looked through many forums on here about what happens to all of your cars with the same CEL (losing acceleration for a second, engine "skips", etc.) and how the ones with the same symptoms as mine were fixed with replacing the TPS itself. I ordered one from omnipower (great customer service!) and installed it as soon as I got it. Drove my car straight to a certain place to get it checked, erased, and checked again. It drove flawlessly, even better than before the CEL, up in vtec and everything, without a single hiccup.
The code came back.
So I finally tried what I should have before buying the TPS, testing the voltage of the TPS, MAP, and the other harness in that bundle of wire-full joy. I have the readings with them disconnected and the car on (let me know if I need to post), but I couldn't get anything with them plugged in. Either I need to cut more of the rubber surrounding to get the contact or I need some strict instructions, because I've never had to do this before.
All N/A, no mods at all besides a K@N intake and cat-back exhaust.
The shielding on the MAP wires is breaking apart, some chunks are gone, but they don't look dirty enough to cause any damage. The MAP had some tiny dust or dirt in the terminal, so I'll get a can of air to spray that out as I've heard it has worked for a couple people.
Any help is much appreciated. I'm in the south part of Peoria, in case chat isn't enough help.
Thanks in advance!
The P0122 code was a bad TPS, I got a new one from OmniPower for $72 including shipping. The owner was very nice with assisting me to ship it to a different address than is on my card; we used paypal. Make sure you line up the prong in the TPS in between the two prongs on the throttle body. You want the TPS voltage set to 4.50 V +/- .01 at WOT. Don't worry about the voltage at idle/closed, that will come with setting the more important 4.50 V. To clear the code, pull the back-up 7.5A fuse under the dash, wait 5 minutes, put it back in, wait 5 minutes, start the car, let it idle without touching it and all accessories off (this lets the ECU relearn the idle). The CEL will come back on immediately as you touch the gas pedal if it isn't fixed.
The P0410 code ended up being a blown 60A fuse under the hood which was caused by the Air Pump blowing out (exploding) in the driver side fender well. I ordered a Air Pump Delete Kit/Emulator from Ballade Sports for $40 including shipping. This lets you completely take the Air Pump out of the car and tricks the ECU into thinking it is working perfectly. It's either this $40 kit or the $500 Air Pump. Links for both items I bought are below.
TPS: http://omnipowerusa.com/store/#!/Omnipower-S2000-TPS-Sensor/p/25508454/category=5937086
Air Pump Emulator: https://www.balladesports.com/produc...ypass-emulator
And if you decide to replace the air pump and need a new fuse, to save you the trouble of finding what it is and where to get it, here you go..
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-a...e-link/32379/#
You just have to cut the end pieces to fit inside the fuse box, unless you can find the proper fuse from the factory. I'm sure the stealership has it on sale for how much I make in a year instead of $4 at AutoZone if you're really lazy and like being at a stealership.
ORIGINAL POST:
"Replaced, but not Fixed."
That should be a meme for how often it happens to dumb people (like me!).
This is my daily, so please help if you know what you're doing with electricity! haha
Once upon a time... I got the CEL on for P0122. Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor or something like that. Of course, I've been driving it all slow and steady because it'll "miss a beat" if I push it too hard over 3k, sometimes even with the slightest throttle. I looked through many forums on here about what happens to all of your cars with the same CEL (losing acceleration for a second, engine "skips", etc.) and how the ones with the same symptoms as mine were fixed with replacing the TPS itself. I ordered one from omnipower (great customer service!) and installed it as soon as I got it. Drove my car straight to a certain place to get it checked, erased, and checked again. It drove flawlessly, even better than before the CEL, up in vtec and everything, without a single hiccup.
The code came back.
So I finally tried what I should have before buying the TPS, testing the voltage of the TPS, MAP, and the other harness in that bundle of wire-full joy. I have the readings with them disconnected and the car on (let me know if I need to post), but I couldn't get anything with them plugged in. Either I need to cut more of the rubber surrounding to get the contact or I need some strict instructions, because I've never had to do this before.
All N/A, no mods at all besides a K@N intake and cat-back exhaust.
The shielding on the MAP wires is breaking apart, some chunks are gone, but they don't look dirty enough to cause any damage. The MAP had some tiny dust or dirt in the terminal, so I'll get a can of air to spray that out as I've heard it has worked for a couple people.
Any help is much appreciated. I'm in the south part of Peoria, in case chat isn't enough help.
Thanks in advance!
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I know this is frustrating but I'm happy to see recently that someone has issues. I'm from Wisconsin and like a mile away from King Motorsports; a certified Honda dealership and awesome race car shop. I had this same problem as well as the same code. So I gave it to King and they said that something in the TPS sensor moved. As you know the TPS is built into the throttle body so they had to drill out the screws to get inside. They did the work and cleared the code but when I got it back nothing except for cold start up idle changed which just revved really high. It would almost stall out when I have it in neutral. I decided to buy a used throttle body and installed it. Still idles really low and on cold start revs up and down. I would love some insight on this. Hasn't thrown a code since thanks.
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 160
From: Fremont, CA
I know this is frustrating but I'm happy to see recently that someone has issues. I'm from Wisconsin and like a mile away from King Motorsports; a certified Honda dealership and awesome race car shop. I had this same problem as well as the same code. So I gave it to King and they said that something in the TPS sensor moved. As you know the TPS is built into the throttle body so they had to drill out the screws to get inside. They did the work and cleared the code but when I got it back nothing except for cold start up idle changed which just revved really high. It would almost stall out when I have it in neutral. I decided to buy a used throttle body and installed it. Still idles really low and on cold start revs up and down. I would love some insight on this. Hasn't thrown a code since thanks.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 281
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From: Arizona - Northwest valley
I've paid some more attention to detail AT IDLE since I last posted.
When the engine is cold, here's what happens: I'll hear (when sitting in the drivers seat) a click coming from the left-side of the bay, the rpm's will jump up to almost 1.5k, then immediately I'll hear another click (you can distinctly hear one clicks on and one clicks off) and it will drop down to 200-400 rpm's and almost stall. It'll do this about every 3-10 seconds.
When the engine is warm, it will do one of two things: fluctuate constantly from about 1.2k to about 700 OR I can hear and feel the engine fluctuating in rpm's the same exact way, but the rpm gauge doesn't move from about 600 or 800 or whatever it stays at.
Once I touch the pedal, even in the slightest, even if it's literally just enough to move it 50 rpm's, it will act completely 100% normal and it drives perfectly, even up to 8k (I haven't pushed it to 9 since the CEL). If I'm moving and I let go of the gas, it will act normal. If I am at a stand-still and let go of the gas, it will drop to about 400 and pretend to almost stall.
What the hell is happening?! All of these symptoms seem so strange together.
If anyone lives in the Peoria, AZ or Phoenix or Glendale area and can help me test the voltage, I would really appreciate it.. IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. If no one can help, I'll just take it to my mechanic and see if he knows anything.
When the engine is cold, here's what happens: I'll hear (when sitting in the drivers seat) a click coming from the left-side of the bay, the rpm's will jump up to almost 1.5k, then immediately I'll hear another click (you can distinctly hear one clicks on and one clicks off) and it will drop down to 200-400 rpm's and almost stall. It'll do this about every 3-10 seconds.
When the engine is warm, it will do one of two things: fluctuate constantly from about 1.2k to about 700 OR I can hear and feel the engine fluctuating in rpm's the same exact way, but the rpm gauge doesn't move from about 600 or 800 or whatever it stays at.
Once I touch the pedal, even in the slightest, even if it's literally just enough to move it 50 rpm's, it will act completely 100% normal and it drives perfectly, even up to 8k (I haven't pushed it to 9 since the CEL). If I'm moving and I let go of the gas, it will act normal. If I am at a stand-still and let go of the gas, it will drop to about 400 and pretend to almost stall.
What the hell is happening?! All of these symptoms seem so strange together.
If anyone lives in the Peoria, AZ or Phoenix or Glendale area and can help me test the voltage, I would really appreciate it.. IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. If no one can help, I'll just take it to my mechanic and see if he knows anything.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,893
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From: Fremont, CA
I've had that happen to me when I remove and re calibrate the throttle position sensor but it usually goes away once the idle relearn procedure is complete so give that a shot.
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Arizona - Northwest valley
Originally Posted by Mr S2000' timestamp='1472145417' post='24047606
Originally Posted by Soviet
When you say it revs up and down on cold starts does it basically just bounce up to 3k over and over again?
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 160
From: Fremont, CA
Originally Posted by Soviet' timestamp='1472146532' post='24047638
[quote name='Mr S2000' timestamp='1472145417' post='24047606']
Yes exactly
Originally Posted by Soviet
When you say it revs up and down on cold starts does it basically just bounce up to 3k over and over again?
[/quote]
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...&f=22&t=549159