Fluids....a newbie at this...
#1
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Fluids....a newbie at this...
Just read a whole ton of posts from S2ki... and now i need to ask some quetsions before I start everything to get my car ready for the track this weekend...
Note I have a AP1 s2000.. which is still under warrenty for another year...
Brake Fluid.... Motul RBF600 ... is this alright for the s2000 or should I be using somethin else?
Clutch Fluid.... Dot 3 or 4 ? which should I use.. which is better?... RBF600 appropriate to use?
Rear Diff .... If I go OEM oil.. Honda GL-5 ... or Mobil 75W-90? which is better... also will using the mobil "Void" or give me issues with Honda is it goes kaboom...
Tranny Oil.... Which is best to use?
Engine Oil.... What weight do you guys recommend for light track racing in weather say 10 - 20 celcius... and from 25-40 degrees celcius? ... 10W30, 10W40, 15W30 ... (still really trying to understand the meaning of oil weights.. especily the following numbers and their meanings...OW being very thin.. and 15W being thick...hopefully my understanding of that is correct at least...)... I typically use K&N Oil Filters ...
Note I have a AP1 s2000.. which is still under warrenty for another year...
Brake Fluid.... Motul RBF600 ... is this alright for the s2000 or should I be using somethin else?
Clutch Fluid.... Dot 3 or 4 ? which should I use.. which is better?... RBF600 appropriate to use?
Rear Diff .... If I go OEM oil.. Honda GL-5 ... or Mobil 75W-90? which is better... also will using the mobil "Void" or give me issues with Honda is it goes kaboom...
Tranny Oil.... Which is best to use?
Engine Oil.... What weight do you guys recommend for light track racing in weather say 10 - 20 celcius... and from 25-40 degrees celcius? ... 10W30, 10W40, 15W30 ... (still really trying to understand the meaning of oil weights.. especily the following numbers and their meanings...OW being very thin.. and 15W being thick...hopefully my understanding of that is correct at least...)... I typically use K&N Oil Filters ...
#2
Engine oil - check your owner's manual. It'll tell you either 10W30 or 5W40.
Tranny fluid - if you have not issues with your tranny, stick with Honda MTF.
Rear fluid - There is NO "OEM, Honda GL-5" fluid for your diff. You have to either get the GL-5 fluid that hypoid gear oil from Honda motorcycle division or as most of us, use Mobil 1 75W90 synthetic or LE 607.
Most will recommend the OEM PCX oil filter. However, a brand name aftermarket filter that has a direct cross reference for an S2000 is OK in my opinion.
Brake and clutch fluid can be DOT 3 or 4. As long as it's this, brand name is your choice.
Tranny fluid - if you have not issues with your tranny, stick with Honda MTF.
Rear fluid - There is NO "OEM, Honda GL-5" fluid for your diff. You have to either get the GL-5 fluid that hypoid gear oil from Honda motorcycle division or as most of us, use Mobil 1 75W90 synthetic or LE 607.
Most will recommend the OEM PCX oil filter. However, a brand name aftermarket filter that has a direct cross reference for an S2000 is OK in my opinion.
Brake and clutch fluid can be DOT 3 or 4. As long as it's this, brand name is your choice.
#5
Regarding the brake and clutch fluids...
For the clutch, just use DOT3. There's really no reason to use DOT4. It won't hurt anything, but it's just money you're throwing away. The clutch fluid won't get hot enough for it to matter which you use.
As for the brake fluid, unless you're tracking the car, I don't see a reason to put DOT4 in. If the S is just your daily driver with some canyon-carving every once in a while, then save the money and go for DOT3. If you insist on DOT4, then RBF600 would work, but it's twice the price of most other brands. ATE Blue should be sufficient for most scenarios.
As for the other fluids, I agree with Xviper's recommendations.
HTH
-sam
For the clutch, just use DOT3. There's really no reason to use DOT4. It won't hurt anything, but it's just money you're throwing away. The clutch fluid won't get hot enough for it to matter which you use.
As for the brake fluid, unless you're tracking the car, I don't see a reason to put DOT4 in. If the S is just your daily driver with some canyon-carving every once in a while, then save the money and go for DOT3. If you insist on DOT4, then RBF600 would work, but it's twice the price of most other brands. ATE Blue should be sufficient for most scenarios.
As for the other fluids, I agree with Xviper's recommendations.
HTH
-sam
#7
I just realized that you live in the Toronto area. If you plan to drive the car into the cooler fall months, in winter or into the early spring months, then don't use the LE 607 in your rear diff unless you plan to use it only for summer and/or track duty. It's just too thick and you need a bit of warm up time/laps to get it to a good working temp.
As for the brake fluid, if you are going to track the car, then go with the DOT 4 and just do the clutch with it, too. It will give you a bit higher boiling point but it will also attract water a little quicker. This is not a real problem for daily driven as I've had my DOT 4 in my car for a couple of years now and last summer, it tested with an electronic tester to be way more than adequate for continued use. For the track you might want to change it annually.
As for the brake fluid, if you are going to track the car, then go with the DOT 4 and just do the clutch with it, too. It will give you a bit higher boiling point but it will also attract water a little quicker. This is not a real problem for daily driven as I've had my DOT 4 in my car for a couple of years now and last summer, it tested with an electronic tester to be way more than adequate for continued use. For the track you might want to change it annually.
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#8
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Im guessin the LE 607 is the Mobil 75w90? What temperature range would you say it works in? What should I be using then?
Theoretically car is a summer car and occasional track car... however it was driven in the winter when it was suitable outside (Ie no snow for a few days.. clean roads.. maby -5 at max outside).. now that I bought a truck for higher milage driving, the car's use in the winter will decrease. Also I don't mind changing fluids semi annually if needed (as long as I learn how to do them properly)
Theoretically car is a summer car and occasional track car... however it was driven in the winter when it was suitable outside (Ie no snow for a few days.. clean roads.. maby -5 at max outside).. now that I bought a truck for higher milage driving, the car's use in the winter will decrease. Also I don't mind changing fluids semi annually if needed (as long as I learn how to do them properly)