S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Fresh Alignment

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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 12:26 PM
  #11  
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Can someone post the OEM specs for AP2 (not UK since I'm not looking for an aggressive track setup))? I've searched around for 30min and found about 15 different specs. I'm looking the stock specs for daily use. I'm thinking something like -1.0 camber in the rear. Getting my alignment done tomorrow so any quick help would be appreciated.

Btw, units would be appreciated as that may contribute to why i keep seeing different numbers.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:26 AM
  #12  
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I once did Euro alignment specs and the car really locked into the corners like rails, but was super twitchy above 90 mph going straight. I went back to OEM.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:59 AM
  #13  
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How about the C/R spec Allignment? It's not as aggressive as the euro allignment but still has mildly aggressive negative camber setup. I ran that setup for a couple of months and liked it. I am now running a little more aggressive than the euro allignment(-1.2 degrees camber front, -2 degrees camber rear). Tried out the -2 degrees camber all around for a day and hated that setup...Rode like ass.

What is the Euro allignment...The whole setup with the toe and caster? I know camber is -1 degree in the front and -2 degrees in the rear.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #14  
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looks good
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by starchland,Jun 16 2009, 10:00 PM
Im still learning this car and later on I can tweak this car to suit it better once I find what im looking for.
Absolutely...the nice thing about an alignment is that it's not permanent. And some alignment shops guarantee the alignment for 6months, so you can take it back and have it changed to something that suits you for free.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by FRODO,Jun 17 2009, 01:05 AM
That first sentence is very interesting since IMO its just the opposite. In a straight line (1/4 mile) it is more desired to have a greater contact patch area that would hint why drag racers always 0 there camber whereas autocross racers desire at least -2.5 on the camber for better contact patch for your outer tire. I am in no way saying you are wrong but in my yrs of racing I have always followed the above camber rules.
If you are having traction issues at the drag strip then 0 camber can help (hell...even positive camber if you get a lot of launch squat). But if you are not traction limited, then lower rolling resistance is faster.

For racing other than a straight line, the reason for neg camber is obvious if you look at my avatar. Note the outside tire is taking most of the lateral cornering energy which is trying to push the tire inward. The neg camber allows roll over to bring the camber to "zero" providing more grip. And grip is king when cornering.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 07:37 PM
  #17  
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just wanted to update...so far things look to be wearing well (albeit the rears a tad more )
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 08:04 PM
  #18  
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I actually like the look of the alignment specs BEFORE than after, minus the bit of front toe-out and a slight bit of asymmetry left to right. What you had was pretty much a UK spec alignment, now you've got the standard alignment.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 08:19 PM
  #19  
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hmm interesting. the tires were wearing to the inside on the fronts, but i hear that this is common.

what do you like about the before? good for track driving?

so far i have been very happy with this alignment, although i havent really pushed the car with this setup, the car feels great in all kinds of driving.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 04:27 AM
  #20  
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I also prefer your previous alignment! More camber = more lateral grip, and even 2 degrees isn't enough to give you uneven wear.
Also, they took your rear toe-in, which was right where I like it (at the minimum spec) and bumped it up. That will increase rear tire wear!

But if you like the way the car feels, that's more important, as long as you don't mind the greater rear wear rate. I do track my car, so prefer to have the camber maximized and the rear toe minimized.

You might try the midrange camber settings you have now with minimized rear toe to reduce rear tire wear. But be aware that an already oversteery car will become more so with reduced rear toe...
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