Grinding Gears in Second
Hey I just installed a set of 4.56 gears along with a comptech reinforced diff. and the new axial flow short shifter. Now when I "get on it" in first gear and shift into second I grind the gears pretty bad. And it only happens when I shift into second no other gears. Do you think this could be how the gears were installed or the short shifter.
When the car is just off and I shift through the gears, second gear is a little bit harder to get in than the rest. It's almost as if it's "sticky." I might try taking off the short shifter tomorrow and re-lubing it and than reinstall and see if I experience this still. Thanks for the help in advance
When the car is just off and I shift through the gears, second gear is a little bit harder to get in than the rest. It's almost as if it's "sticky." I might try taking off the short shifter tomorrow and re-lubing it and than reinstall and see if I experience this still. Thanks for the help in advance
swap out the shifter for a couple days.... see if it still grinds
I have the SS and there is a buzzzzzz through the knob
I have a AP2 and the 2nd gear grind is there until trans warms up... shift slower for first 10 minutes
I have the SS and there is a buzzzzzz through the knob
I have a AP2 and the 2nd gear grind is there until trans warms up... shift slower for first 10 minutes
Originally Posted by Picturepro,Jan 15 2006, 09:51 PM
swap out the shifter for a couple days.... see if it still grinds
I have the SS and there is a buzzzzzz through the knob
I have a AP2 and the 2nd gear grind is there until trans warms up... shift slower for first 10 minutes
I have the SS and there is a buzzzzzz through the knob
I have a AP2 and the 2nd gear grind is there until trans warms up... shift slower for first 10 minutes
Short shifter.....
I also have 2 solid layers of Dynomat and a 3rd 1" about where the stick
will line up with the rubber boot once put together, and 3-4 wraps of silicone wrap.
ziptie the rubber boot to the stick, ziptie the leather boot the stick (when reassembling the console to the car) and 6 wraps of teflon tape for the knob
I took out alot of noise....... if I turn off the radio and listen.... its just there
but NOT like before
use the stock stick for a couple days..... something does not sound right
heavy grind all the time
I also have 2 solid layers of Dynomat and a 3rd 1" about where the stick
will line up with the rubber boot once put together, and 3-4 wraps of silicone wrap.
ziptie the rubber boot to the stick, ziptie the leather boot the stick (when reassembling the console to the car) and 6 wraps of teflon tape for the knob
I took out alot of noise....... if I turn off the radio and listen.... its just there
but NOT like before
use the stock stick for a couple days..... something does not sound right
heavy grind all the time
The 1-2 grind is not uncommon with the S2000. Your car may not have had the problem before, but the short shifter has brought it on. The 4.56 gears have absolutely nothing to do with the problem.
The problem is caused by the fact the stock 2nd gear synchros can't slow down the clutch disc (via the input shaft) fast enough to match the 2nd gear throughput to the output shaft to complete a successful shift. Basically, the result is every time you do your hotrod 1-2 shift, your destroying your syncros.
The only solution (and you may have already done too much damage to your synchro to help) is to slow down your shift.
Other factors that may help are to switch to Amsoil MTF or GM Synchromesh Friction Modified (GMSMFM). I recommend the Amsoil product because it's designed specifically for Honda transmissions and has the friction modified benefits of GMSMFM (it's listed as a direct replacement for both Honda MTF and GMSMFM). The Amsoil MTF is also a full synthetic and cost less than GMSMFM. Check it out at www.amsoil.com .
Another thing that may help is to find an aftermarket friction disc that weighs less (has a lower rotational inertia) than the stock disc (or disc you're using). Less inertia means it's easier for the synchro to slow all that rotational mass down so you can complete a successful shift - faster. This was what you were hoping for in the first place.
I still can't imagine someone wanting a shorter shift in an S2000. It's one of the shortest stock shifters produced. There is really no benefit to a short shifter in this application.
Last but definitely not least ... you need to rev match on your upshifts.
I hope this helps.
The problem is caused by the fact the stock 2nd gear synchros can't slow down the clutch disc (via the input shaft) fast enough to match the 2nd gear throughput to the output shaft to complete a successful shift. Basically, the result is every time you do your hotrod 1-2 shift, your destroying your syncros.
The only solution (and you may have already done too much damage to your synchro to help) is to slow down your shift.
Other factors that may help are to switch to Amsoil MTF or GM Synchromesh Friction Modified (GMSMFM). I recommend the Amsoil product because it's designed specifically for Honda transmissions and has the friction modified benefits of GMSMFM (it's listed as a direct replacement for both Honda MTF and GMSMFM). The Amsoil MTF is also a full synthetic and cost less than GMSMFM. Check it out at www.amsoil.com .
Another thing that may help is to find an aftermarket friction disc that weighs less (has a lower rotational inertia) than the stock disc (or disc you're using). Less inertia means it's easier for the synchro to slow all that rotational mass down so you can complete a successful shift - faster. This was what you were hoping for in the first place.
I still can't imagine someone wanting a shorter shift in an S2000. It's one of the shortest stock shifters produced. There is really no benefit to a short shifter in this application.
Last but definitely not least ... you need to rev match on your upshifts.
I hope this helps.
Some have reported less or elimination of the 2nd gear grind with changing the fluid. I would give that a try initially with either Honda or GMFM. Once the second gear syncro is gone you must replace it to avoid the grind.
I think the short shifter is just increasing the stress on the syncro(s) because of the increased throw internally so slow down. Grinding is bad.
FWIW, My syncros were in great condition before and I can shift very rapidly without any grind now with the short shifter. Sorry to hear about your difficulties.
I think the short shifter is just increasing the stress on the syncro(s) because of the increased throw internally so slow down. Grinding is bad.
FWIW, My syncros were in great condition before and I can shift very rapidly without any grind now with the short shifter. Sorry to hear about your difficulties.
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as stated, but just to reiterate.
the 4.56 gears have nothing to do with this, considering they are located in a completely different location from the tranny, and have no affect on the mechanics of shifting.
the 4.56 gears have nothing to do with this, considering they are located in a completely different location from the tranny, and have no affect on the mechanics of shifting.







