Help ! 2006 Won't turn over But runs fine if push started
Hi all. Need help please. To diagnose starting issue because my 2006, bone stock wouldn't start today after driving / running errands. (95k miles) It's well maintained, new battery etc. Everything appears normal, Got help push starting it ran normal, great fine for 45 min's to home.
Probably a starter circuit problem or some safety switch? I'm not a mechanic but I can usually fix most things but don't know my ap2 that well.
Does anyone have a sequence of items to check off and help me drill down to the issue (s)
Start button? Crank position sensor? Fuse? Safety switch. Help finding and testing them? Gotta get this thing fixed ASAP !
Thanks !
Probably a starter circuit problem or some safety switch? I'm not a mechanic but I can usually fix most things but don't know my ap2 that well.
Does anyone have a sequence of items to check off and help me drill down to the issue (s)
Start button? Crank position sensor? Fuse? Safety switch. Help finding and testing them? Gotta get this thing fixed ASAP !
Thanks !
Its the clutch interlock switch pusher. That was what those small pieces of hard, yellow plastic you found on the floor were.
Part is like $2. Labor free if you can diy. Literally just have to push new stopper into empty hole. Getting to hole is the problem.
Most find they have to remove pedal to get to it.
As a temp measure to be able to start car, you could do a clutch interlock bypass. Basically, you jamb a paperclip into back of interlock connector. Car starts.
Part is like $2. Labor free if you can diy. Literally just have to push new stopper into empty hole. Getting to hole is the problem.
Most find they have to remove pedal to get to it.
As a temp measure to be able to start car, you could do a clutch interlock bypass. Basically, you jamb a paperclip into back of interlock connector. Car starts.
This issue seems to have bitten me this week, as well. My AP1 drove fine on Monday to get a new Robbins top installed. Picked it yesterday afternoon, it started right up, but after I returned home I noticed the brake lights stay on (and I also noticed some small yellowish plastic bits on the floormat.).
Called the top installer about brake lights and they said to bring it back by today. But when I went to start it today, no luck. Attempted several battery disconnects hoping to resolve brake light (still staying on), but engine won't turnover. I read an older thread about a 23 fuse on steering wheel for lighting, but this is more involved.
Installer did call me back and said the only wire he unplugged was for rear defroster behind seat. He said an old Honda of his has a brake pedal sensor issue affecting lights, so I will check that. Bummer. Top looks great, though!.
Called the top installer about brake lights and they said to bring it back by today. But when I went to start it today, no luck. Attempted several battery disconnects hoping to resolve brake light (still staying on), but engine won't turnover. I read an older thread about a 23 fuse on steering wheel for lighting, but this is more involved.
Installer did call me back and said the only wire he unplugged was for rear defroster behind seat. He said an old Honda of his has a brake pedal sensor issue affecting lights, so I will check that. Bummer. Top looks great, though!.
and I also noticed some small yellowish plastic bits on the floormat.).
Your clutch pedal stop thingie has disintegrated. Part is maybe $5 at the most at ANY Honda or Acura dealer -- they all use these. Instructions abound on how to replace it. There are 3 so while under there replace them all. Car won't crank if the clutch isn't depressed and this pedal stop is how the car knows the pedal is depressed. It ain't fuses it's mechanical.-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; Aug 7, 2024 at 09:22 AM.
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Yeah, I saw that. I just assumed small bits were twenty years of trash/debris from under the seat.
Also saw some other threads about brake-clutch stop pads. Different part ($10 at Advance) for brake light issue, I assume
Also saw some other threads about brake-clutch stop pads. Different part ($10 at Advance) for brake light issue, I assume
There are three of these stoppers. The one on brake pedal would cause that symptom, brake lights stay on all the time.
That one super wasy to get to. Squeeze up under dash, find empty hole above brake pedal where there is a switch with a plunger facing into hole. Note that when you press plunger, brake lights go off.
Slide plunger stopper into empty hole (so flat side pushes plunger). Done.
Now just havta do same thing for the upper, near impossible to get to clutch one. Most end up removing pedal from bracket to get to it.
The lower, easier to get to one on clutch controls cruise control. Main reason cruise stops working.
That one super wasy to get to. Squeeze up under dash, find empty hole above brake pedal where there is a switch with a plunger facing into hole. Note that when you press plunger, brake lights go off.
Slide plunger stopper into empty hole (so flat side pushes plunger). Done.
Now just havta do same thing for the upper, near impossible to get to clutch one. Most end up removing pedal from bracket to get to it.
The lower, easier to get to one on clutch controls cruise control. Main reason cruise stops working.












