Help, f20c locked - seized.
06-21-2016, 09:03 AM
#1
Help, f20c locked - seized.
HI,
For some reason I lost my previous account so I made a new one. I bought my GPW 00 back in 2002. I bought it with 38,000 miles. Currently it has 56,000 miles and the engine locked without giving any warnings. I only have exhaust and intake, competition stage 2 clutch. As you can tell in 14 years I only drove her less than 20,000 miles, sometimes it will go over 6 month without me driving this car.
500 miles ago (almost a year ago) I replaced the retainers, well I payed someone to do it. I also installed the clutch at the same time, replace the transmission and the exhaust. The car ran great for those 500 miles, something I noticed was that after letting my car idle for 10 minutes or so, it would start smoking really bad, it smells like burn fuel or oil, don't know. When I pressed on the gas, more smoke will come out but then it will settle down and it wouldn't smoke. If I letted sit for another 10 minutes or so, same as before, smoking. I checked the oil regularly and it never went down from the full mark.
1 week ago I was driving the car, I checked the oil before heading out. Drove it normally for 15 minutes or so, then when I got to the ramp I did a third/fourth gear all the way to 9k. then I drove the car normally and then it made a weird sound, I pressed the gas and it wouldn't go. Car shut off and I end up towing the car to the Honda dealership. They told me the engine was locked.
I towed the car to my house, tried to crank the engine and nothing, it was locked. I took out the serpentine belt just in case the ac/alternator was seized. I started removing the plugs. The one against the firewall was complete stuck, I tried every liquid out there and nothing. I end up using my breaker bar and the plug broke, leaving half of the plug in the head. I called another Honda tech to come and check the engine, he took the valve cover out and he said the engine looked really clean. He was able to unlocked the engine with a bigger breaker bar, but once the piston got to the cylinder against the firewall (don't know what number is that one) it will stop.
I bought another f20c from a member here in s2ki.com, really good looking engine btw lol. My question is, what could cause my original engine to lock? I don't want to install the new one and have the same problem again. Was it because I would hardly ever drove the car?
Also, I bought new motor mounts, I need oil and anti-freeze. The engine I bought has 90k miles, should I replace anything before installing it?
I am sorry if this thread got this long, all your help will be appreciated.
For some reason I lost my previous account so I made a new one. I bought my GPW 00 back in 2002. I bought it with 38,000 miles. Currently it has 56,000 miles and the engine locked without giving any warnings. I only have exhaust and intake, competition stage 2 clutch. As you can tell in 14 years I only drove her less than 20,000 miles, sometimes it will go over 6 month without me driving this car.
500 miles ago (almost a year ago) I replaced the retainers, well I payed someone to do it. I also installed the clutch at the same time, replace the transmission and the exhaust. The car ran great for those 500 miles, something I noticed was that after letting my car idle for 10 minutes or so, it would start smoking really bad, it smells like burn fuel or oil, don't know. When I pressed on the gas, more smoke will come out but then it will settle down and it wouldn't smoke. If I letted sit for another 10 minutes or so, same as before, smoking. I checked the oil regularly and it never went down from the full mark.
1 week ago I was driving the car, I checked the oil before heading out. Drove it normally for 15 minutes or so, then when I got to the ramp I did a third/fourth gear all the way to 9k. then I drove the car normally and then it made a weird sound, I pressed the gas and it wouldn't go. Car shut off and I end up towing the car to the Honda dealership. They told me the engine was locked.
I towed the car to my house, tried to crank the engine and nothing, it was locked. I took out the serpentine belt just in case the ac/alternator was seized. I started removing the plugs. The one against the firewall was complete stuck, I tried every liquid out there and nothing. I end up using my breaker bar and the plug broke, leaving half of the plug in the head. I called another Honda tech to come and check the engine, he took the valve cover out and he said the engine looked really clean. He was able to unlocked the engine with a bigger breaker bar, but once the piston got to the cylinder against the firewall (don't know what number is that one) it will stop.
I bought another f20c from a member here in s2ki.com, really good looking engine btw lol. My question is, what could cause my original engine to lock? I don't want to install the new one and have the same problem again. Was it because I would hardly ever drove the car?
Also, I bought new motor mounts, I need oil and anti-freeze. The engine I bought has 90k miles, should I replace anything before installing it?
I am sorry if this thread got this long, all your help will be appreciated.
06-21-2016, 09:13 AM
#3
oil level still in the full mark.
Second question I don't know. He is a Honda tech and a well respected guy here in Oklahoma. But I don't know the answer to your second question.
06-21-2016, 11:24 AM
#7
Sounds like you dropped a valve on cylinder #4( against firewall) Valve drop's in cylinder, then gets mashed by the piston and plays havoc on head and usually block/cylinder bore. Your spark plug wouldn't come out because it was destroyed on the other end along with the valve all mashed up in cylinder, preventing piston from rising and therefore locking up engine. My guess is you can get about 180 degree rotation out of engine in either direction and that's it, wont do a full revolution. Id be extremely suspect of the retainer/keeper work replacement you had done. The very thing you were trying to prevent from happening.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
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06-21-2016, 12:42 PM
#8
Sounds like you dropped a valve on cylinder #4( against firewall) Valve drop's in cylinder, then gets mashed by the piston and plays havoc on head and usually block/cylinder bore. Your spark plug wouldn't come out because it was destroyed on the other end along with the valve all mashed up in cylinder, preventing piston from rising and therefore locking up engine. My guess is you can get about 180 degree rotation out of engine in either direction and that's it, wont do a full revolution. Id be extremely suspect of the retainer/keeper work replacement you had done. The very thing you were trying to prevent from happening.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
"The valve is still in place. That's the whole thing I was checking when I pulled the cams. Of it dropped a valve, it wouldn't be in place still."
06-21-2016, 01:42 PM
#9
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1466537077' post='23998811
Sounds like you dropped a valve on cylinder #4( against firewall) Valve drop's in cylinder, then gets mashed by the piston and plays havoc on head and usually block/cylinder bore. Your spark plug wouldn't come out because it was destroyed on the other end along with the valve all mashed up in cylinder, preventing piston from rising and therefore locking up engine. My guess is you can get about 180 degree rotation out of engine in either direction and that's it, wont do a full revolution. Id be extremely suspect of the retainer/keeper work replacement you had done. The very thing you were trying to prevent from happening.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
"The valve is still in place. That's the whole thing I was checking when I pulled the cams. Of it dropped a valve, it wouldn't be in place still."
06-21-2016, 02:28 PM
#10
Community Organizer
Draining the oil would answer this question.