We may have been chasing the wrong demon. I'd try it with the power steering fuse pulled. Takes 10 minutes (9 to find it).

-- Chuck

 

I was thinking of a dirty steering torque sensor on the steering. Usually the pull is varied and intermittent when it has failed or needs cleaning. I wonder if the thing is dirty to the point of inputing a continuous signal to pull one way.
There are stickies here for cleaning it.

 

He already tried a different eps sensor. But that doesn't rule out an eps system issue.

I often use the divide and conquer troubleshooting technique. Figure out which haystack before digging in.

Figure out ways to rule in or rule out specific systems. Like the brakes. No matter what might be root cause of brake drag, it'd show up as hotter rotors on one side. Easy. You already did that now we can rule out brakes.

Tires, swap them. Ideally w a whole other set. You did that (oem wheels).

eps is even easier, just pull the fuse. Do that next.

 

Ok so today I double checked all tire pressures were equal (35 psi). I rotated tires front to rear. And pulled the eps fuse. Took it for a drive and car pulled to the right again.

put the fuse back in and no difference. Still a pull to the right and have to keep constant pressure on the steering wheel to the left for the car to track straight.

at this point I’m baffled lol. The compliance bushings all appear fine with no visual tears. EPS seems fine. There’s a brand new AP2 eps torque sensor in there.

the only things I can think is that either my alignment is off (it’s been 3 years since the car was last aligned but it pulled to the right even after that alignment) or something is wrong with these tires.

I don’t know if putting the oem wheels back on really did anything cause I never realigned the car for those wheels. So the alignment wouldn’t have been correct for that wheel which is why I didn’t see a difference maybe?

 

You dont need an alignment for changing wheels.

 

get the car alignment done !

 

I know you've said you've tried the OEM wheels but you should swap the tires left to right to test

 

good to know I believed you did. Well that just reinforces that fact that the oem wheels did not change the pull to the right then

I believe that will be my next step since it’s the next cheapest option at this point. The car has been aligned twice since these wheels were put on though, even though it’s been 2 years since these last alignment. The pull to the right has been there every time. I’m going to try and different shop this time and see if that changes anything.

I’ve tried that as well and there was no change.

 

Beyond current planned next steps, my thoughts after that, is this an issue with rear, not front?

Like what if its a rear subframe alignment issue? Easy/free to check/correct. Definitely something to do before alignment, not after.

 

how would I go about checking this? This car has never been hit or in any sort of collision/accident to cause the rear subframe to come out of alignment though. When the car was stock it tracked straight. Even after I installed the coilovers and first set of rpf1’s the car still tracked straight. It was only after I had the tires from the rpf1’s transferred to the CE28’s and put them back on the car did this start happening.

my car is pretty low. Barely a finger gap on all 4 corners. Does anyone think the car being this height could affect this?