I guessed these were gonna be a SOB to take off but I really didn

 

I had 3 tough ones out of the eight using a 7" Craftsman impact driver with a regular hammer. Borrowed a larger balpean (sp?) hammer and they broke loose. Get more weight!!!

 

I had to drill em out on my Prelude and replace them.

 

What's the old phase - "get a bigger hammer"

Those things were the worst SOB's I had ever seen.

You may want to just get a tap to get them out and replace the bolts altogether.

 

Utah moves in with advice......:

Apply a small amount of WD40, 1-2-3, or other LIGHT penetrating oil. Heat the screws very lightly with a blow dryer....reapply oil....again....again. You should never need to "drill out". There should be a mild difference in alloys of parts (to prevent galling.....like metals gall=bad). The difference may be slight but oil...heat lightly....oil...heat lightly should do the trick. Difference is coefficients of expansion will provide a gap. Hell if it works on a 30 Million Dollar Jet it has to work on the Stook...right? Keep me posted.

 

Those little MF'ing BASTARDS! I was SO pissed at these damn things, I almost couldn't SEE straight!!




Chris, as I PM'd you a few minutes ago (and anyone else who is or will be doing this) ... here is my PM to you so that others may learn the nightmarish horrors that await you caused by these little mf'ers. Man, what I ever peo'd!


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Chris,

Yea, you are/were on the right track. And it pissed us BOTH off how these little mf'ers wouldn't budge. What we finally ended up doing was getting the kind of tap that you hammer into the head of the screw and then use pliers or a Visegrip to turn the screw out. The ****ed up thing about it is that there's not a huge amount of torque on the screws, the Helm's manual says put them back with about 8 lbs if I remember correctly. The problem is that the little bastards have seized from all the heat, which obviously, you are aware of!

On the two that we stripped, we tried the kind of taps that you put in a drill and the kind that you bang into the head with a hammer. The kind with a drill was a waste of about 30 dollars just for the ****ing BIT....totally ineffective! The hammer kind worked beautifully. Just pummel that little bastard screw until it's firm in there and then use something with grip, Visegrips would do the job.

As for holding the rotors still. Hmmmm. We didn't have trouble with that. We just went about it and didn't need to hold it. The crazy thing is that once the little bastard pops loose, you can take it the rest of the way out with your fingers!

It was absolutely MADDENING! Add to it that when I was removing a front caliper, my hand flew off and I got a NASTY slice in the meaty part below my thumb from the rotor shield....that was the icing on the cake, man...! Thanks for bringing up THAT fond memory!

But I suggest getting the kind of bit you hammer into the head and going that route. It's what we had to do. And there are a variety of sizes available, get one that looks a little big, you will need it...

Let me know if I can help you further!!

g

 

The last post of mine was preceeded by this one...this was a PM to Chris.

Please learn from this!


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OK, what you need, and we learned this during this process, is an impact wrench. You know, the kind that you beat on the one side with a hammer to make the bit turn on the other side...?

Without that tool, the job is pretty freaking impossible! We were dumbfounded at first, but once we found out to use the impact wrench, it is a very simple task.

We got mine at Sears and the bits that came with it are good for the job. Of course, the one that we stripped trying to use a phillips screwdriver on it required the use of about 3 more trips to the hardware store to get various taps and bits to extract the stripped mf'er out of there...man, what a headache!

A great lesson here, one that we both know, most jobs are a cinch with the proper tools!

Good luck!

g

 

wow! deja vu all over again...back in the prehistoric days of my largely misspent youth many hours were spent working on various hondas..160's305 superhawks and scramblers..[no dreams thank god]..and the first thing i learned was to get a high quality impact screwdriver to get the multitude of phillips screws out...i could never figure out how the factory got them in so fu*king tight without leaving any marks on the head of the screw!!!it wasn't heat as the point cover was as hard to remove as the clutch cover...and no locktite was used...when i did a major service i went down to the honda dealer[bikes only back then..] and they sold a plastic bag containing every screw needed for the whole bike...i wonder why....[it even had a part # !!!]...so it's a warm feeling to know tradition lives on at hmc..

btw..ever check a brand new car 's fasteners for signs of tool marks at assembly? how do they DO that????

 

Try a product called Liquid Wrench. Just spray it on, wait a few minutes and then tap it lightly with a small hammer to set up a vibration. They should come or easily after that.

 

Two keys: hammer-type impact wrench (such as Craftsman) and it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE you use the right bit. It's not a #1 or #2, it's a larger one. I can't tell you what the number is or how to find it, but it comes with the Crafstman (and most) impact drivers. Use a smaller one and you WILL strip the head.

When an impact is usually not available, I usually drill. I've reinstalled rotors and raced w/o screws and not had a problem.