I just had my 2000 AP1 clutch, flywheel, master & slave clutch cylinder, etc. replaced.

It is not shifting as it did prior to the fix and the shop is saying that there is nothing wrong. I've used only OEM parts and have new Honda MTF fluid installed.

Major issues:

In first gear from a stop, you basically can't shift into first gear. However, if you are rolling just a bit (1 to 2 mph), it goes in just fine. This was not the case before the fix.

Downshifting into 2nd is quite notchy.

Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is usually OK, but not always.

When shifting from 3rd to 4th at anything less than about 4k rpm, it's very notchy. After about 4 to 5k rpm, it goes in just fine.

Also, when shifting into the same gear at different rpms and at different times, sometimes it's fine and sometimes it's notchy. It varies greatly.

Any ideas? Does the master clutch cylinder need to be adjusted or something else.

Thanks!
Mark

 

It could just be air in your clutch fluid lines and or master cylinder shaft needs to be adjusted. Hopefully they adequately lubricated your splines on your transmission so your clutch disk is not dragging which will cause your symptoms too. I would take it back to them and have them adjust the clutch pedal to spec and bleed the clutch fluid system of all air. See how it goes from there.

 

Make sure you are depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. From your symptoms its sounds as if the clutch is dragging and or not fully disengaging. Either of these can be caused by not pressing the clutch down all the way.

 

definetly sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging. bleeding the master cylinder would be the first thing to try

 

I'm failry certain I"m pressing the clutch all the way down.

Can you please explain why bleeding the master cylinder will help? I'm new to this...

 

You can press the clutch down all you want, if there is air in the master cylinder, the piston in the slave cylinder is not going to push out all the way, causing your clutch to drag...

 

Bleed the lines.

 

I'll definitely try that.

What about fiddling with the pick up/release point on the master clutch cylinder? Could that make a difference?

Is there any chance that something wasn't put back together under the car (throw out bearing, etc.) that would cause this?

I really don't want to have to drop the tranny again...

 

Hello:

What exactly is adjusting the master cylinder shaft?

 

It just preloads the master cylinder. On the master cylinder, there is a little bit of play before any hydraulic power is actuated. You can adjust the shaft to remove the useless play, which will allow more use of the master cylinder. I would definitely bleed the slave cylinder a few times before adjusting the master. Also, dont take out more than just the 'free' play.