I am looking for a picture that I saw before of a HKS SSQV Blow-Off Valve that someone has installed on their Comptech SC/AC setup. They had the BOV Flange custom made, and I wanted to see the picture of this setup. Does anyone happen to have this picture? I remember seeing it before in an old post but I cannot find it!

Thanks,

 

not completely on topic, but have you considered the godzilla bov? it's what i run, and is the only bolt on bov that fits perfectly the comptech aftercooler. took a whole 5 mins to put that sucker on, and didn't require any custom work.

 

I just sold it because I like the sound of the HKS better, the modification isn't hard, basically just need to attach the BOV flange to the Flange on the AC...

 

Slightly off topic, but there is also this one:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...&f=22&t=235670

It replace the Bosch unit on Comptech directly rather than connecting directly to the AC.

 

Yeloscreamer has one on his, I think he has pics.

Offtopic again, is there any adavantage or disadvantage in adjusting the tension spring on a Godzilla BOV?

Oh yeah since all you guys have S/C, which way do I turn the Comptech Fuel pressure regulator for more fuel? Need to know so when I get it dynoed we can do it right the first time and not risk anything.

 

A BOV has no effect on A/F ratios. No adjustments need to be made.

 

From memory clockwise is more pressure and anti-clockwise less, but it's the sort of thing you check as you do it. Just attach a fuel pressure gauge and at idle, turn the screw one way and see what happens. You can't damage the car without being stupid and you'll see how it works.

That said, if your entire tuning involves turning the screw one way or the other that's not a lot of control. Sounds to me like you could use an E-manage.

 

I know that a BOV has no effect on A/F, just wondering if it would make a difference in sound or performance if I tightened or loosened the spring?


I have an emanage just haven got it installed yet. Im getting it done at work, but than I have to drive it to the dyno like 2 hours. Do I need a base map to run on for the drive up?

Just for now, I have the 7 psi pulley on and Drew told me to turn up the fuel pressure. I wasnt going to until I had it dynoed. Runs fine for now off of stock Comptech setup.

 

What kind of changes are you talking about making other than the 7psi pulley? The e-manage gives you some different of options you can take, larger injectors, no FMU, and timing contol. I have a feeling you are running just the high boost pulley at the moment. I'd strongly reccomend bigger injectors, 440's, or 550's. I'd probably go for 550's, you will be able to run less fuel pressure and less injector duty cycle.

 

Until recently I was running the 8psi pulley (4") with a SARD FPR and 440cc injectors and the E-manage.

I know several people have run higher boost pulleys with the stock set up (just using the FPR to up fuel) and it's probably safe, but I wouldn't recommend it.

That said, it should be fine for a long cruise if you don't drive hard. If you keep revs (and hence boost) down you won't be outside the Comptech's normal parameters (so keep it under 7000 and you'll be fine.

If you do want to go 440s and FPR let me know. They are just sitting on my desk gathering dust. I also have an E-manage map that would be an ideal starting point for this setup.