How to change Clutch Fluid?
After a couple of searches, I couldn't find anything on how to change/bleed/flush Clutch fluid. Do I need special tools? How bad would it be if air bubbles got in there? What kind of fluid do you prefer? And how much fluid do you need? Thanks in advance for all your input!
MY02 15K miles and lovin every minute!
MY02 15K miles and lovin every minute!
Welcome,
At the top of the "Under The Hood" forum, there is a sticky for Frequently Asked Questions. Click that and you'll find all the D.I.Y. tips in one place. Here's a link:
FAQ Thread
Clutch flush is actually pretty easy. You will need a helper to pump the pedal while you bleed the system. You'll need an 8mm (I think) box/open end wrench, and a small piece of tubing to get the old fluid from the bleeder valve to your waste bottle. I got some tubing from an aquarium shop for about $1. Get a couple different sizes, and you'll find you can use in to do the brakes (VERY similar process). The bleed valves for the brakes are 10mm, so the tubing will need to be bigger as well. Also, get a turkey baster from the market. Use it to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, instead of pushing it through the system.
Remember clutch fluid = paint removal. Protect your finish well before starting.
Also tough on skin, so get yourself some gloves.
Bubble are not an issue if you follow the DIY process. Don't let the reservoir get low when you are pumping the pedal and you won't get bubbles.
You can use a variety of fluids. Valvoline "ABS" brake fluid is what XViper recommended in his original write-up. We also use ATE Super-Blue. Remember clutch fluid is actually brake fluid - to clear up any confusion. One bottle of ATE Super Blue is just enough to do BOTH the clutch and brakes system. However, you cannot store brake fluid, as it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Once the bottle is open, you need to use it within a day or so.
*ATE is not available at all stores.
**Valvoline "ABS" Dot 3/4 is at most every parts store
Read the DIY write-up, and just ask if you have more questions.
I've done this job numerous times, so I know this stuff from experience.
Good Luck.
Hockey
At the top of the "Under The Hood" forum, there is a sticky for Frequently Asked Questions. Click that and you'll find all the D.I.Y. tips in one place. Here's a link:
FAQ Thread
Clutch flush is actually pretty easy. You will need a helper to pump the pedal while you bleed the system. You'll need an 8mm (I think) box/open end wrench, and a small piece of tubing to get the old fluid from the bleeder valve to your waste bottle. I got some tubing from an aquarium shop for about $1. Get a couple different sizes, and you'll find you can use in to do the brakes (VERY similar process). The bleed valves for the brakes are 10mm, so the tubing will need to be bigger as well. Also, get a turkey baster from the market. Use it to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, instead of pushing it through the system.
Remember clutch fluid = paint removal. Protect your finish well before starting.
Also tough on skin, so get yourself some gloves.
Bubble are not an issue if you follow the DIY process. Don't let the reservoir get low when you are pumping the pedal and you won't get bubbles.
You can use a variety of fluids. Valvoline "ABS" brake fluid is what XViper recommended in his original write-up. We also use ATE Super-Blue. Remember clutch fluid is actually brake fluid - to clear up any confusion. One bottle of ATE Super Blue is just enough to do BOTH the clutch and brakes system. However, you cannot store brake fluid, as it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Once the bottle is open, you need to use it within a day or so.
*ATE is not available at all stores.
**Valvoline "ABS" Dot 3/4 is at most every parts store
Read the DIY write-up, and just ask if you have more questions.
I've done this job numerous times, so I know this stuff from experience.
Good Luck.
Hockey
after watching billman250 change the fluid in my car, i think it's pretty simple..
first get a turkey baster and suck out the fluid from the reservoir on top (the one closest to the fender, not the brake master cylinder!). once you
first get a turkey baster and suck out the fluid from the reservoir on top (the one closest to the fender, not the brake master cylinder!). once you
Originally posted by AP1ayer
at what mileage should the clutch fluid be changed?
at what mileage should the clutch fluid be changed?
However, they list brake fluid (and we know it is the same fluid, just a different system) to be changed @30k for normal conditions and every 15k for severe conditions.
I think that is fair. Some track guys change it every oil change, but that is excessive.
From what I've seen in the cars down here.........every 15k is good. That fluid gets pretty nasty.
Enjoy,
Hockey
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Thanks, awesome info. I heard the difference after changing the fluid is a free'r flowing clutch pedal... my car just reached the 15K mark, and there's a scattered cloud of gunk in there...
billman250 also adjusted my clutch pedal play. unfortunately i could not see how he did this, but i'm sure that this is a part of the reason why my clutch pedal feels so damn good now!
i'll pm him and see if he can add to this post.
i'll pm him and see if he can add to this post.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by bkw
after watching billman250 change the fluid in my car, i think it's pretty simple..
first get a turkey baster and suck out the fluid from the reservoir on top (the one closest to the fender, not the brake master cylinder!). once you
after watching billman250 change the fluid in my car, i think it's pretty simple..
first get a turkey baster and suck out the fluid from the reservoir on top (the one closest to the fender, not the brake master cylinder!). once you







