Installing the SS lines are cake - just curious if there is a proper technique to minimize fluid loss. I'm installing the speedbleeders as well.

Should I break the line from the firewall first, then the caliper, then install the new line at the firewall, let the fluid run out the end to get most of the air out and install on the caliper? Then install the bleeders?

Curious if anyone has a trick to this -

Also - how different are the speedbleeders to bleed - can this be a one man show now? No instructions were included on how to use those. Just break them open and pump the pedal? No air will feed back in?

thanks!

 

I'm not aware of any procedural technique with the lines. I have done both the SS lines and the Speedbleeders.

And yes, the SB's are a one man show. All you do is break the valve by about 1/2 to 3/4 turn, attach a hose to the valve into a bottle of some sort, pump the pedal to your heart's content and blammo, your lines are bled and ready to go - just don't forget to tighten the bleeder valve.

Also, remember that the SB takes a STANDARD, not a metric, wrench. I won't tell you why this is important or how we figured that out...

SB's are awesome. Anyone who runs this car hard should have them...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gregstevens
[B]
Also, remember that the SB takes a STANDARD, not a metric, wrench.

 

If your lines are US built, then at your first wheel break the line at the flange bolt (steel line connection) and make sure that the threads match. Have seen a difference in thread types. Big pain to have to cut and flair lines with new flange bolt if your not prepared.

I just start at the caliper first, break line and change bleeder then move to the other connection along with my catch basin. Caliper should be drained by the time you finish with it.

It is also a great time to flush the system. You can get some DOT 4 fluid in either red or blue at most speed shops. If it is not the brand you want to use, then bleed to color at all the wheels and then bleed to clear (if your brand is clear).

 

I flushed to Motul 600 a few weeks back - should have waited till I did the lines - but I have a spare bottle (yah!).

Good point on the wrench - I probably would have reached down and used the same one fr/ OEM lines. Now I knows better

I'm also swapping the pads to EBC Green Stuff. If there is any interest, I'll post how they do. This weekend we are running 3/4 of the oval and infield at Atlanta Motor Speedway w/ Chin. Figure thats a good proving ground.
I dunno how well the AVS Sports will hold up compared to the stockers - but thats another thread.

Joe

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ContachPatch
[B]
I'm also swapping the pads to EBC Green Stuff.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ContachPatch
[B]I'm also swapping the pads to EBC Green Stuff.

 

Others have said so, but MAKE SURE to use a flair nut wrench, aka, a line wrench...when taking the but off the line on the attachment of the line away from the wheel.

Stripping this nut would suck...I think C3 stripped his using a regular open end wrench.

Make sure you have the right tools!

 

I have a couple flair nut wrenchs in standard sizes - since they wrap around, I'll see if they work on the stook.
My rotors have 2K on them - I suppose its a good idea to do a light (600 grit) scuffing of them and wipe with denatured alcohol.

How long is the bedding process? EBC says 50 - 100miles? I'll bring the OEM pads for good measure. The full set wasn't that bad at $110 and change. Less than the R4S'
I've run performance friction on the SER w/ great results - plus they have a lifetime replacement at AutoZone!! Unfreakin real! No apps for the S2K yet

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ContachPatch
[B]How long is the bedding process?