80 ft/lbs is reasonable enough (as well as the suggested spec). Torqueing "as hard as possible" is DEFINITELY not suggested...go that route and you'll strip/snap a nut/bolt or warp a rotor for sure.

 

"As hard you can" is not a very good suggestion to take. The book says 80 ft/lbs but I've elected to go 90 on the basis that some guys have reported the stock torque being inadequate for track duty (lost lug nuts). I figure if these things can let loose on the track, they "could" do so on the road. I would not compel anyone to go with 90. It is a matter of your own choosing.
I have run 90 for 3.5 years and I change my wheels over twice a year at least. So far, so good. Most other 5 lug wheel hubs take around 100.

Regarding the changing to the spare after a flat. We must be reminded that this is a worst case scenario when a flatbed is not easily obtainable. The use the spare and the provided tools would be considered emergency measures and we do the best we can under the circumstances. This would not be the time to debate about torque.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by thongfoto
Boit- just found a post where Xviper thinks that 90ft/lbs is the right pressure.

 

This will over-torque the lug nuts - DO NOT DO IT!

I use 80 lb-ft of torque and it is a lot less than you may expect. When using a Craftsman beaker bar it is very easy to apply the correct torque to the lugnuts with one arm. I put over 4k track miles on my MY 2000 car and never had any loss of torque (or lost nuts) using 80 lb-ft.

Harbor Freight sells decent 1/2" drive torque wrenches for around $10. I wouldn't use them for precision applications, but for torquing lug nuts they're great and will help you get the feel of correct torque.

 

Spec is 80 lbs. Over torque will fail threads. (personal experience).

Torque wrench. Autozone. Less than $20.

 

Here is a tip for first-time "clicker" torque wrench users. Cycle the wrench a few times by setting the torque slightly heighere than you need, and turning it until it clicks. This helps ensure accuracy.

And I also agree with the rec to loosen it to '0' after you are done and ready to store it - it will help ensure accuracy.

 

Thanks Road and all you car gurus.

Now, to my boys in NOVA.... are you %&$^%*#-WHACKED?!?!?!?!? How could you tell me if it's okay to hand-tighten these lugs?

I got a torque wrench today and learned that I had everything from 3/4 to 1 full revolution TOO tight!

I settled on xviper's 90 ft/lbs b/c I tend to always drive my S like I'm on the track.

Always get a torque wrench if you're suspicious of your own strength. I had cranked everything down 1 handed w/out adding body weight and it was still excessive.

 

thongfoto:

Even if you asked "How do I reset the CEL?" I would answer, because you always have provocative avatars".

Keep 'em *cough* coming! *cough*.

 

Lug nuts are about $5 apiece and have spherical seats. - Not like other Hondas and not usually found at parts stores.

Keep a few spares around. When you keep turning and the torque stops rising, you will know its time. Carrying a die to clean up the stud threads after the nut fails is not a bad idea either.

 

Here's a cheap torque wrench if you don't want to shell out for a Craftsman. Take it for what it's worth though. Harbor Freight stuff is reasonable.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...?itemnumber=239