I have a problem
David b,
Me again. I wanted to let you know that there were many miles on my truck the first time this happened. The second time was about a year later, with no more than 10,000 miles additional to the first time. And like I said, it was just after off-roading, and I know I splashed water into the engine. Some other things that were done were replacing the fuel cleaner and flushing the injectors. You know what, I'll look for my most current work order because it was done about a year ago. If I find anything I forgot, I'll let you know.
Me again. I wanted to let you know that there were many miles on my truck the first time this happened. The second time was about a year later, with no more than 10,000 miles additional to the first time. And like I said, it was just after off-roading, and I know I splashed water into the engine. Some other things that were done were replacing the fuel cleaner and flushing the injectors. You know what, I'll look for my most current work order because it was done about a year ago. If I find anything I forgot, I'll let you know.
We don't think it converter because it is a sometime thing. A clogged converter wouldn't let it rev because it would have the exhaust clogged all the time.
This only happens when the fuel system is loaded up for a period of time. If I idle it or drive slow for a while I have one or two good revs in it before it stops again.
There are also no rattles so no bricks are loose.
Thanx for trying tho.
I will try another Honda dealer tomorrow if I still don't get some response
This only happens when the fuel system is loaded up for a period of time. If I idle it or drive slow for a while I have one or two good revs in it before it stops again.
There are also no rattles so no bricks are loose.
Thanx for trying tho.
I will try another Honda dealer tomorrow if I still don't get some response
what does your car do when revved over 7k in neutral? you just have to narrow it down to a few things, one, is it an electrical problem? switch out computer with a good one. two, do you have good spark and ignition timing, check your plugs and use a timing gun. three, do you have fuel, check fuel pressure with gauge. after all of this, you should have the answer or at least some major clues. good luck.
With no load it revs just fine. Only after it has been under a load for a while ( like at speed on the Freeway for a while or driving in a lower gear) or make repeated high rpm runs does it quit.
I haven't had time to do any manual checks myself and the Dealers won't until they exhaust the computerized checks.
Wish I had a spare ecu & key to swap out.
I know where there are several spare ecus, just no keys that match and the immobilizer won't allow them to start without the proper key. According to the manual the dealer could program a new key code, but I can't.
I haven't had time to do any manual checks myself and the Dealers won't until they exhaust the computerized checks.
Wish I had a spare ecu & key to swap out.
I know where there are several spare ecus, just no keys that match and the immobilizer won't allow them to start without the proper key. According to the manual the dealer could program a new key code, but I can't.
I have a Honda fuel pressure guage, but I don't have the adapter for the S2000 fuel rail. The older Hondas had the adapter built into the fuel filter on the firewall. If you can find, or assemble an adapter, I can check the pressure for you. If you look at the Helm's manual, the adapter replaces the pulse damper on the fuel rail with the proper threading for the guage.
David,
I can see water spots for about a foot into the engine bay. On the left side I can see spots on the heat sheild right next to the header (not the header heat sheild), on the right side I can see them as far in as the big radiator hose, and from the front, as far in to that big beam that goes from right to left. I washed my car again on Thursday and had the same problem. Only thing was that this time it was happening BELOW VTEC (about 5,000 RPM). After trying to hit VTEC for the first time and that happening, the car ran fine again after about 30 seconds. Again, this is a very soft "limiter" type of thing. It doesn't kick in harshly at all or anything.
Im starting to wonder if my problem has any corelation with yours since you said it started happening after you washed your engine, and mine only happens after I wash my car and water gets under the hood.
I can see water spots for about a foot into the engine bay. On the left side I can see spots on the heat sheild right next to the header (not the header heat sheild), on the right side I can see them as far in as the big radiator hose, and from the front, as far in to that big beam that goes from right to left. I washed my car again on Thursday and had the same problem. Only thing was that this time it was happening BELOW VTEC (about 5,000 RPM). After trying to hit VTEC for the first time and that happening, the car ran fine again after about 30 seconds. Again, this is a very soft "limiter" type of thing. It doesn't kick in harshly at all or anything.
Im starting to wonder if my problem has any corelation with yours since you said it started happening after you washed your engine, and mine only happens after I wash my car and water gets under the hood.
You're lucky, yours goes away, mine doesn't.
Have had another discoraging experience with Honada Service.
I took my car to Freeman Honda so they could hook up with Honda Japan to have them run diagnostics (Freeman will give me a loaner car whereas John Eagle won't), but instead of doing the diagnostics they take off the heat shield I added on top of the radiator and said it was blocking the air flow and called it fixed.
I bet the service manager $100 that it wasn't fixed and offered to make it happen again. He decided to have another look.
I took the service manager for a ride when I left the car, but not the mechanic. I don't really think he told the mechanic the loading of the fuel system part and the mechanic made one pass and said it worked. Had he done 2 passes it wouldn't have worked.
I feel like I have to do everything myself with these people (meaning ALL Honda service people). I am not finding any real mechanix at any of the dealers. It seems that if the computer can't find it it doesn't exist!
I am driving a little VTEC Accord which is an OK "point A to point B" car, but is not the same thing as my S2000.
Anyone heard what changes they are making in the '03 models. My wife has decided she wants one also so I don't know whether to give her mine and buy a new one or get her the new one.
Have had another discoraging experience with Honada Service.
I took my car to Freeman Honda so they could hook up with Honda Japan to have them run diagnostics (Freeman will give me a loaner car whereas John Eagle won't), but instead of doing the diagnostics they take off the heat shield I added on top of the radiator and said it was blocking the air flow and called it fixed.
I bet the service manager $100 that it wasn't fixed and offered to make it happen again. He decided to have another look.
I took the service manager for a ride when I left the car, but not the mechanic. I don't really think he told the mechanic the loading of the fuel system part and the mechanic made one pass and said it worked. Had he done 2 passes it wouldn't have worked.
I feel like I have to do everything myself with these people (meaning ALL Honda service people). I am not finding any real mechanix at any of the dealers. It seems that if the computer can't find it it doesn't exist!
I am driving a little VTEC Accord which is an OK "point A to point B" car, but is not the same thing as my S2000.
Anyone heard what changes they are making in the '03 models. My wife has decided she wants one also so I don't know whether to give her mine and buy a new one or get her the new one.
David b,
After much convincing, the Toyota mechanic finally took the time to look at my truck with an unbiased opinion about the mods. It tripped no CELs, but, to find the problem, they actually hooked some sort of computer (can't remember) to the engine, ran the wires out from under the hood, and drove it around the block. Turns out, one of the pistons was not firing. Again, after a major tune up, it was fine, and a complete smack to the face of all those who blamed it on my I/H/E. I can tell you that the fuel injector flush and new fuel filter helped the most. The other thing you may want to check is the O2 sensor. This was replaced on my truck as well. It was not, however, tripping a CEL light. Good luck. These ideas are taken right from work orders for my Toyota 4Runner.
After much convincing, the Toyota mechanic finally took the time to look at my truck with an unbiased opinion about the mods. It tripped no CELs, but, to find the problem, they actually hooked some sort of computer (can't remember) to the engine, ran the wires out from under the hood, and drove it around the block. Turns out, one of the pistons was not firing. Again, after a major tune up, it was fine, and a complete smack to the face of all those who blamed it on my I/H/E. I can tell you that the fuel injector flush and new fuel filter helped the most. The other thing you may want to check is the O2 sensor. This was replaced on my truck as well. It was not, however, tripping a CEL light. Good luck. These ideas are taken right from work orders for my Toyota 4Runner.


