Basically the subject says it all, I'm thinking a torque wrench would be a good thing to have but don't know much about them. Mostly I see the kind that looks like a postal scale on a stick, but I seem to remember also seeing one where you could dial in the desired torque and it would apparently 'break loose' at the right time and only let you torque so much. Not sure if that is a good thing or a gimmick.

So, this is a call for information and recommendations from those with experience in such things ... thanks in advance!

 

If you just want one for lug nuts and things, buy one from Autozone. They have both types that you described. I have one of each.

 

sears .....

 

How much money you got? I have a Facom clicker type and can get it calibrated by our engineering guys so I am spoiled. For most work, I would recommend one of the beam types over the clickers, although. They can take a licking and still be accurate enough.

If you get a clicker, here are some tips to keep it accurate:

1) Loosen the locknut to relieve the spring tension after every use
2) Cycle it against a wheel nut or similar so it clicks a few times to "prime it". That will give more accurate readings.

 

Keep in mind you may want 2:

1) 0-75 ft-lbs for engine work.
2) 25-250 ft-lbs for the crank pulley

 

I get the sneaky suspension you are going to be doing more basic kinds of things with this wrench than say rebuilding an engine. If so I would go right down to Sears and get a clicker type. Know what you are going to be doing with the wrench before you buy it so you know the load range to be looking for.

My Sears clicker type goes from 20 to 150 foot-pounds and it is amazing how that one wrench does almost everything.

Usage:
Do not leave it at a setting when not in use, always turn it back to the lowest setting
Do not use it to loosen nuts, use it only for tightening them

 

i have a set of 4 .... made by snap on... one of the best toll mfg.. very good idea to have em especially if one is technical... and yes it does start clickin ...snapon asks for calibration once in 2-3 yrs depend on usage... and thier trucks are visible in my area 3 times a week... a very good investment for do it your selfers ..i persoanlly don't like craftsman tools.. the brand sears make...snapon ..mac...matco are good brands...and yeah there are different types for diffferent size sockets.. like .5", 1/4", 3/8" all are equally used often
karan

 

BTW, here is an anticipatory answer.

To convert ft/pounds to inch/lbs multiply * 12.
To convert inch/lbs to foot/pounds divide by 12.

 

Thanks for all the info guys, as Triple-H says I will be doing fairly basic work. Probably half of its use will simply be for the oil drain bolt, and the drain and fill bolts for the transmission and diff. I just figured that after buying the S, it might be a good time to invest in some tools. I suspect I am prone to over-torquing and would like to have a tool help me get it right. Hence, this thread.

Road Rage, yeah, units are important, that's the biggest thing I learned from physics class!

 

Actually isn't it ft-lbs or lbs-ft. ft/lb indicates you would divide, but Torque is the length of the moment arm x force (ft-lbs).

My torque wrenches were bought at Sears. Beam-type 0-75 lb-ft and 0-150 lb-ft for lug nuts.