Install daytime driving light module
09-05-2001, 09:56 PM
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Install daytime driving light module
I ordered a daytime driving light module from Wire Works, P/N DL-20, and it comes with as many wires as an octopus has arms. I'm electronically challenged and the instructions aren't specific to the S2k. Has anyone actually installed one of these in an S2k, or know someone who has?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
cal
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
cal
09-06-2001, 05:35 AM
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It may have been easier just to order a Canadian spec light switch from Honda. I think that is what controls the DRL's, but there is a possibility of additional wiring (doubtful, though).
09-06-2001, 09:37 AM
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I searched other threads before initiating this inquiry. People have tried to acquire the Canadian DRL module and got the run-around from both sides of the border. That's why I went ahead and ordered this unit.
As far as the differences, there is a separate circuit diagram in the manual (pgs. 22-59 thru 22-61) for the Canadian model that shows everything but the kitchen sink running in/out of the DRL module ("Control Unit"). Not that I know what the hell I'm looking at, anyway.
If anyone has the patience and knowledge to examine the two schematics and tell me where the following wires from MY DRL unit should be connected, I'd be grateful:
Ground, high beam, low beam, "ignition switch side of the neutral safety switch" (whatever that means), parking brake switch (wire must be grounded when brake is set), hot 12-v ignition source (key not in run position), hot all-time source.
cal
As far as the differences, there is a separate circuit diagram in the manual (pgs. 22-59 thru 22-61) for the Canadian model that shows everything but the kitchen sink running in/out of the DRL module ("Control Unit"). Not that I know what the hell I'm looking at, anyway.
If anyone has the patience and knowledge to examine the two schematics and tell me where the following wires from MY DRL unit should be connected, I'd be grateful:
Ground, high beam, low beam, "ignition switch side of the neutral safety switch" (whatever that means), parking brake switch (wire must be grounded when brake is set), hot 12-v ignition source (key not in run position), hot all-time source.
cal
09-06-2001, 01:01 PM
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Ground = ...
high beam = ...
low beam = ...
"ignition switch side of the neutral safety switch" = switch that prevents you from starting the car without the clutch in. @ the clutch pedal.
parking brake switch (wire must be grounded when brake is set) = @ the parking brake lever.
hot 12-v ignition source (key not in run position) =...
hot all-time source. = ...
high beam = ...
low beam = ...
"ignition switch side of the neutral safety switch" = switch that prevents you from starting the car without the clutch in. @ the clutch pedal.
parking brake switch (wire must be grounded when brake is set) = @ the parking brake lever.
hot 12-v ignition source (key not in run position) =...
hot all-time source. = ...
09-06-2001, 01:15 PM
#7
Good luck with your wiring. If you are hooking it up the exact same way as Honda then you might want to know something so you don't get frustrated at the end when it doesn't seem to work. In my car, once you've started the engine, the DRL will NOT come on till you release the parking brake, hence the tie in to the parking brake circuit.
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09-06-2001, 04:29 PM
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bbsilver, thanks--that's a start.
xviper, yes, I realize that. A good feature, probably. Although the instructions say if you don't have that switch, you don't need to connect that wire. So I wonder if I didn't connect the wire (even though I do have that switch), would it make any difference (other than the obvious loss of a maybe not-too-important feature)?
cal
xviper, yes, I realize that. A good feature, probably. Although the instructions say if you don't have that switch, you don't need to connect that wire. So I wonder if I didn't connect the wire (even though I do have that switch), would it make any difference (other than the obvious loss of a maybe not-too-important feature)?
cal
09-09-2001, 09:11 PM
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The US and Canada harnesses going into the light assemblies are different. There are different wire colors and additional wires for the Canada units (I guess Honda could have the same harnesses, but utilize different wires for US and Canada models).
Ground can be added to any metal, just use a sheetmetal screw and tap into any metal (use an ampmeter to determine if it is a ground).
You can get to three of the wires in the center console:
Green/White is the parking brake (ground when brake is set)
White/Black into the hazard switch is 12V continuous
Red/Blue into hazard switch is 12V when ignition is ON
The other wires for the low and high beams depends on what they are used for. Can you elaborate on what the directions say, or scan the entire directions? The highbeams circuit for the S2K is different than most. The switch is on the ground side of the highbeam bulb (ie, there is 12V at the positive terminal of the high beam bulb whenever the headlights are ON, and the switch grounds to negative terminal of the highbeam bulb, turning on the bulb). Is the module designed for this type of circuit? If the module is designed just to supply the positive terminal of the highbeam with a lower voltage, than it wont work without a major re-wiring of some switches.
Ground can be added to any metal, just use a sheetmetal screw and tap into any metal (use an ampmeter to determine if it is a ground).
You can get to three of the wires in the center console:
Green/White is the parking brake (ground when brake is set)
White/Black into the hazard switch is 12V continuous
Red/Blue into hazard switch is 12V when ignition is ON
The other wires for the low and high beams depends on what they are used for. Can you elaborate on what the directions say, or scan the entire directions? The highbeams circuit for the S2K is different than most. The switch is on the ground side of the highbeam bulb (ie, there is 12V at the positive terminal of the high beam bulb whenever the headlights are ON, and the switch grounds to negative terminal of the highbeam bulb, turning on the bulb). Is the module designed for this type of circuit? If the module is designed just to supply the positive terminal of the highbeam with a lower voltage, than it wont work without a major re-wiring of some switches.
09-10-2001, 06:33 AM
#10
The wires for the DRL feature are NOT installed in USA cars. Even a simple thing like the DRL indicator in the dash, which is only one wire about 3 feet long, is not there, and the pin in the wiring harness connector is missing too. As is the bulb for the indicator.
The DRL circuit is quite complex:
Both positive and negative to the high beams are switched - and by different switches,
multiple sensors and inputs are used to control under what specific conditions the DRL's should be on,
the high beams are wired in series in DRL mode - they run at half voltage.
Chances are your module is designed to supply positive voltage to both bulbs (parallel wiring instead of series), in which case they will not light at all, because they don't get negative until you turn the high beams on.
If I had the wiring diagram for the module I could maybe find a solution, but I don't think it will be easy. It will probably require additional relays that you will have to wire into both high beam harnesses, either under the dash or under the hood, and if you want the same ooperation as factory (bulbs in series for half brightness) an additional wire between the headlights is required.
The DRL circuit is quite complex:
Both positive and negative to the high beams are switched - and by different switches,
multiple sensors and inputs are used to control under what specific conditions the DRL's should be on,
the high beams are wired in series in DRL mode - they run at half voltage.
Chances are your module is designed to supply positive voltage to both bulbs (parallel wiring instead of series), in which case they will not light at all, because they don't get negative until you turn the high beams on.
If I had the wiring diagram for the module I could maybe find a solution, but I don't think it will be easy. It will probably require additional relays that you will have to wire into both high beam harnesses, either under the dash or under the hood, and if you want the same ooperation as factory (bulbs in series for half brightness) an additional wire between the headlights is required.