Installed ACT PP + OEM everything else. Something's not right. EDIT: success!
 

The original clutch in my 07 had been making tons of rattling noise lately so decided it's time for a clutch job.

Over the weekend friend and I installed the same combo that's been recommended here over any over again: ACT pressure plate (H021), OEM friction plate, OEM AP1 flywheel, OEM throw out bearing and also OEM clutch master cylinder. Install went smoothly but right away these issues below caught my attention after starting the car:

1. There seems to be a constant noise coming from bell housing when the clutch pedal is in the up position and goes away when pedal is depressed. It's a "rotating" sound that is audible (although faint) outside the car over the sound of cold start engine. Inside the car it is much more noticeable with windows up and without the shifter boot. With shifter boot installed it is definitely quieter but can still be heard.
   Here is a video from inside of the car looking into the shifter (in neutral) without boot:
   
   You Tube
2. The piston on the clutch slave cylinder is constantly pushed against the shifter fork when clutch pedal is in the up position.
3. Clutch engagement point is about 1/2" to 1" from the floor.

I figured I should probably first try to ensure there is enough clearance between slave cylinder and shifter fork before dealing with the low engagement point and the noise. However, I'm not sure how to adjust for/increase piston clearance and the clutch master cylinder linkage nut adjustment directions seem to contradict issue #2 and #3 above.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

My car makes a somewhat similar noise depending on the clutch being engaged or not but yours does sound a little worse at least on video. What you're saying about the slave cylinder piston and clutch fork sounds normal to me. It should also have pressure against the fork. Lastly, you probably just need to bleed your clutch system better. It can take a bit of time. I just replaced my cmc and had to bleed it a second time.

I would start with bleeding the system and adjusting the clutch pedal.

You may just be hearing gear noise.

#2 is normal. Virtually every hydraulic clutch system has a constantly running release bearing. There is a spring inside the slave cylinder that puts a small preload on the fork at all times. The release bearing is always in contact and thus always spins. This is also how the "self adjusting" feature on the clutch works.

Your engagement issue likely has something to do with bleeding or the initial Master Cylinder Preload adjustment

Thanks for the replies, I'll rebleed the MC again.

About the noise, that was what caught me off guard as it's abnormally loud. Could it be the throw-out/release bearing is bad?

When you say "abnormally loud", do you have the shifter area fully reassembled?

The only thing not put back is the shifter tunnel trim panel (cut holder, arm rest) but I put all the underneath layers on, rubber boot that covers the 3 shifter bolts, foam that surrounds the shifter in between tunnel sheet metal, round rubber boot with white plastic ring and it can still be heard inside the car. It can also be heard outside on a cold started engine with HFC + Fujitsubo Legalis.

My friend whom has done multiple clutches also noticed the sound on first engine start.

Given the shape of this cars friction disk I don't think it's physically possible to install the friction disk backwards.

Might sound dumb...but do you have fluid in the trans?

Yes. transmission fluid was just done 7k miles (1.5 years ago), didn't open the tranny to do this clutch job.

Seems like the general consensus is that this sounds normal. Perhaps I'm just paranoid because I seem to remember my stock clutch was silent.

thanks!

Functionally, I don't think it hurts anything, just annoying. My car did the same thing until I changed my clutch at 70k miles. Pretty much same set up as you. I noticed that the springs on the old friction disk were pretty loose inside the cages so that could be the cause of the sound.

Actually loose spring on friction disk was the exact reason I did this clutch job. At only 62k miles clutch started to make constant buzzing/rattling noise and when I pulled it out this weekend two of the 4 springs have no tension and loose inside the cage.

Everything that went in for this install are brand new, that's why I'm a little paranoid after hearing this (new to me) sound.

Yes I have some pedal free play when released. If anything my issue is engagement point is too low 1-2" from the floor. Will report back after I rebleed it again.
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Just want to give my exp for reference. I have the exact same setup in mine. There was no chatter and honestly your setup now sounded like my stock setup before. Also, my clutch engagement point remained just about exactly the same as before basically 2/3rds of the way up but with a very slightly stiffer pedal feel.
I also think it is very important in the sequence you tighten down the clutch bolts. Also not to overtighten them making sure by using a torque wrench uniformly tightening all bolts to the same spec in a step by step process (first to 5, then 10, so on and so forth).

did you grease everything as detailed in the service manual?

Yup, followed and greased as per service manual

Nothing is loose as far as I can tell.

Seems like the general consensus is that a little bit of sound from throw out bearing is normal, that gives me all the confidence I needed.

I re-bleed the clutch, it does feel better now, also adjusted the clutch pedal travel via both where it connects to the clutch master cylinder and the up position end stop. Pedal has a little bit of slop before pushing against the CMC but the clutch engagement point is still pretty low, about 3/4th of the pedal travel, is there anyway to get it adjusted up to around 1/4th of pedal travel besides the two nuts mentioned above? I'm already running out of adjustment range on the master cylinder rod thread.

Thanks again

sounds alittle louder than normal but it does sound normal. I had the same problem with my car, I gave up and swapped the pressure plate(mugen) and dropped all the noise. ACT while performs well but the noise got to me...

Yes it can, but it'll usually just slip if it is.

Interesting, so the noise is coming from the pressure plate and not the throw out bearing? or is it the heavier pressing force from the pressure plate to cause TO bearing to be louder? If so that makes me a million times more relieved. I can understand things to sound different when changed but the last thing I want would be a new but bad throw out bearing was installed, especially considering the amount of work it would take to swap it out again.

Success!
 

Wrapped up the install today, first the clutch bite was very low near the floor, after driving the car for ~20 miles now the engagement point is much higher, within 1/4th of pedal travel basically same as before, All is good!

The plastic ring that holds the shifter boot was a PITA during removal and wouldn't budge, had to break it off, so I just 3D printed a replacement.
Attachment 156280
Attachment 156281
Attachment 156282
Attachment 156283

Really loving this new clutch combo. Thanks everyone!

pretty dope with that printer.

If I wasn't living like a transient day laborer, I'd buy one myself!

Glad you got it figured out, when I had my ACT PP it was definitely louder than the now stock one. Some of the noise could be from the the TOB, that's normal for the most part. See if you can upload a video with the noise now to see how it differs from the first one. The other thing to watch out for is making 100% you have an OEM TOB, the aftermarket ones are a no go.

I am curious, how did you manage to bolt down the four bolts of the metal bracket that goes on top of the shifter tunnel, the part before you put on the plastic ring and boot. For the life of me, I can't tighten one of my bolts, top left one specifically, is loose. The metal of the transmission cover doesn't allow me to get a good access to the top left bolt. I've reinstalled this tranny before and never had an issue but I can't get to that bolt with a socket in any way nor can I with my small wrenches...

Thanks! Yeah I've used an OEM TO bearing.

Those bolts are indeed a bit of tight fit, I had to use a short socket that barely clears the shifter bracket and a wobble extensions to got a little bit of angle to clear the surroundings, my universal joint didn't fit in there.

Mine S has same sound, after the same job with same parts (ACT PP, OEM everything else) :)
It hasn't changed in 10k km

You didn't mention the flywheel pilot bearing. Is that new oem also?

It does seem like you are just experiencing New Part Paranoia. That hyper sensitivity to sounds, vibrations, etc, that accompany any significant work done recently on your vehicle. Trying to make sure all is well, and any issues found before they turn ugly.

The more invasive the procedure, and the more your own hands were involved, the more prone to New Part Paranoia induced hyper sensitivity you are.

That's reassuring, thanks!

Yes new pilot bearing as well, New Part Paranoia is no joke. :drive:

I just did this exact swap a month ago. I think what you are suffering from is the paranoia of "I just spent my entire weekend on this job and I'm pretty sure I need to look inside again" :)

#1 I agree, it does sound louder than normal. That said, when the clutch is in you will get some sound from the pilot bearing and the release bearing; with the clutch out you will get some sound from the pilot bearing and the transmission. Either will give you a whirring, almost grinding sound as you can hear. I'd probably leave it and keep a close eye on clean engagement/disengagement.

#3 The ACT pressure plates have always felt heavier than stock with a lower pedal engagement, it doesn't matter the application. The ACT in my S2000 engaged right off the floor before it was broken in. After 600 track miles of break in, it is now better albeit still lower than stock. I looked at adjusting the clutch pedal but didn't think it would affect it much.

Thanks everyone for the help, I've finished up the install and put around 400 miles on the car so far, and the car is driving excellent.

It was exactly this, clutch job is time consuming and last thing I wanted was to have installed new but defective bearings and having to do everything over again.

Right after I lowered the car from stands the engagement point was about 2" from the floor, I tried to bring it up higher by adjusting nut on clutch master cylinder linkage and the up-travel stop on clutch pedal but was running out of any further adjustment. After 20-40 miles of stop-and-go driving the engagement starting from stand still was around 1/2 pedal travel, gear shift around 2/5 pedal, after 200 miles of driving and a little bit of linkage readjust it is now exactly where it was before; full dis-engage slightly past 1/4 pedal travel. VERY happy with this heavier clutch set up.

Regarding the bearing noise that was freaking me out, turns out that sound was much more noticeable from outside of the car when it was sitting on jack stands vs standing on the floor, found this out later when I had to jack front of the car on stands again for some other adjustments, doh! Just leaving this info here for anyone doing the install in the garage themselves in the future.

Thanks again everyone!