hm.

i had the AC problem as well as a spotty headlight.

ac would kick on/off randomly.

traced everything back to...get this.

TWO relays in the fuse box.

wtf? never heard of relays going bad before!

well, anyway, try jump all the relays with wires to see if it'll do anything.


Here was the weird thing:

Left headlight relay = bad.

right headlight relay = good.

left headlight would (sometimes) not turn on. BUT it would FLICKER. figured hey, lets pull the left relay see what hapepns (before i found out it was the relay). NOTHING HAPPENED. it was somehow still 'trying' to turn on. Pull the right relay, both lights go out - thought someone had chopped my wires and fkkd things up royally. Changed relays because of my AC problem (traced allll the way back to the fkkin relay after i changed condensor fan, transistor, switch).

Figured hey, lets try use the left headlight relay instead..

no good.! that relay was busted too.

changed both relays and both the AC and the lights work perfectly. wtf?!

 

I used to have irregular sensor readings. A temporary fix was to add a ground from the chassis of the ECU to the body. After months of searching, it turned out to be a ground under the hood that wasn't properly re-installed.

An easy way to test would be to add several grounds between the engine, tranny, intake manifold and the chassis. You can use booster cables or make yourself some grounds for the test.

 

I had the same issue for a month or two.....then it just went away and its been months since it's gotten messed up lol.

 

I have determined my issue is RPM dependent... Find a (very) good downhill drop. Put the car in neutral and let it idle as you descend. The speedo will stabilize. After it does - blip the throttle (while still in neutral). If your speedo goes all wacky again - you've got my disease.
I don't know what is causing this - but, I suspect it is a floating ground in the ECU. Bad solder, a failed component - who knows... I have an A02 ECU that I'm going to put in mine (eventually) and see. Real life has taken priority and this has fallen to the back-burner. I'll get to it when I can.


My misfire codes were completely unrelated. I had made a good start at melting down my plugs. Check yours - and do your compression tests again.

A word of advice to anyone who cares to heed it: If you are going to run your car flat out (150+MPH) for more than 20 miles, get a heat-range cooler set of plugs.
Seriously.

Why did you replace the motor @ only 51K?


FWIW: I don't really subscribe to the "low RPM / low load" methodology for breaking in any engine. I would pull the VTEC wire to start with - no sense in being stupid. And, my break-ins are done by 500 miles. I use a break in oil, and change it @ 200 and 500 miles.

My cars make plenty of power - and don't use oil. My current S2000 uses less than 4oz of oil in a 10,000 mile change interval. I also have had 8 vehicles with over 200,000 miles on an engine...
Take this information for whatever value it is to you.

Sleeper

 

[QUOTE=ikeyballz,Oct 7 2008, 09:16 PM]hm.

i had the AC problem as well as a spotty headlight.

 

In my car, the ECU is positively grounded to the same panel that G401 grounds to. If you have a ground point in the ECU - I would be very interested in knowing about it...

I can 't tell you how many wires, probes, and test devices I used trying to find a bad ground or a bad wire in the harness. If my ECU swap doesn't solve the problem - I will be replacing the dash harness (I've already gotten one). I've already replaced the engine harness...

Sleeper

 

Mine started that way...

Good Luck.

Sleeper

 

Thanks for the info, Sleeper.

I believe I solved the problem... G101 (I think) on the back of the cylinder head wasn't even tightened. The coils and the VSS ground there. I fixed the problem, I think, but when I took the car out on the road to test it, a new problem occurred with my clutch.

The previous owner had macguyvered a ghetto nitrous system and then somehow overrevved the motor. Then I bought it, the car drops a valve a few thousand miles later, and I open the motor up to begin the rebuild and find every single retainer cracked so badly you could almost see through them.

Anyway... if you have misfires and wierd speedo readings, do yourself a favor and reach behind the cylinder head and feel for a screw holding a ground wire to the head.

 

This was one of the grounds that we found to be poorly tightened!

 

You are correct - that is G101. I've checked that ground so many times it's no longer funny....

My misfires were due to the fact I had melted the #2 and #3 spark plugs from running WOT for 10+ minutes without so much as a let-up on the throttle. I now run one heat range cooler plugs... I haven't had that issue again.

Sleeper