After I got all the headwork on my car it still didn't feel strong.
Even after Stephen at CarTeck spent 2hours tunning on the dyno.. we only made 210 at the wheels???

Finally after I had the car taken to South Florida Performance, Frank realized that due to all the headwork and the parts all being stainless steel and titanium that the knock sensor was reading the valve train noise as knock voltage and thinking the car was knocking. So in turn it would retard the timing to -8 and dump a ton of fuel. Basically refusing to let us tune.

He recomended that I do a Hondata reflash and that it would set a higher voltage reading so that the head noise would not trip the knock sensor. But that would be over $600 for the reflash :wow:

My question is can I just unplug the knock sensor and try tuning that way, or does it need to be pluged in for the car to run right?
Also, do you guys recommed the Hondata or is ther something better out there?

Thx again
~Leo

 

HAHA. Scary...find a new shop. There is no Hondata for the S2000 as our ECU is not flashable. Yikes. Leo, I don't have much advice, but what is your setup?

 

it's a pacific performance throttle body, stock intake box, stage III ported head, stainless steel 3angle valves, titanium retainers and TODA valve springs.
other mods incluse a VAFC and a type one exhaust with spoon test pipe

i have been thinking about doing cams but have not been able to tune the car yet with just the headwork... I'm so frustrated with all this...

any help would be awsome
thx

 

It is my understanding that the Mugen ECU cuts the hyper sensitive knock sensor. It may be a good option here if you are confident of your CR.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Leo Gets

 

Hey whats up, im new to the community here. however, i have been posting for many years on Honda-tech. I enjoy reading about the tech issues of the S2k so that i may learn about them before a purchase. Here is my experences with Knock sensors.

First, a knock sensor must be correctly torqued in order to function and record the correct values of viberation. It is a pizoelectric sensor which means it generates a current based on viberation. Not enough torque on the sensor bolt woudl cause it not to dectect the right ammount of viberation and too much would likewise create a higher output voltage causing a severe retard of timing. Find out if your knock sensor was removed in order to have your headwork performed. I like to think of solutions to simple problems before going and having alot of money spent for no reason. i

however, if this is not the problem i have a few tricks to fool a stock ECU into thinking aknock sensor is functioning correctly by feeding it an acceptable value in order not to retard or advance. However this is bad because in the event you actually get detonation your ecu cannot make adjustments accordingly.
i hope this helps.

PS: great board!

 

Can I ask if you have done a valve adjustment? My car was ticking like crazy after I got my head installed, a little adjustment and amazingly it went away.

 

Since the car was returned to me I have not had the valved re adjusted. I am gonna look into some of the stuff that was mentioned with the knock sensor as well as readjusting the valves.

The car does tick excesivlley loud. Even right when I got the car back from the shop. I was told that most race heads make such noise, satisfyed with that answer I have done nothing about it.

As far as plugs I am running OE with OE gapping. But I hope that the valve clerances are what is causeing this "head"ache that I am going through.

Thx everyone.
I will keep you all posted

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Leo Gets
The car does tick excesivlley loud.

 

Leo, I would seriously adjust the valves, I was amazed at how far off my shop made mine.