Lightest Possible Flywheel.
the 4lbs number was pulled out of my ass of course.
Track shifts should be quicker (less time for rpms to fall), heal-toe would be eaiser and the only time I care about getting moving from a start would be for standing start races, but then I would be required to dump the clutch.
Track shifts should be quicker (less time for rpms to fall), heal-toe would be eaiser and the only time I care about getting moving from a start would be for standing start races, but then I would be required to dump the clutch.
Ry,
Come to think of it, you mentioned racing in the UCTCC once. If you do decide to race w/ them, they don't allow lightweight flywheels:
7.27 Fywheel
Flywheels may not be modified or lightened except for the purpose of balancing per 7.12 Flywheel resurfacing is limited to 0.030 inches (tolerance is 0.004).
Come to think of it, you mentioned racing in the UCTCC once. If you do decide to race w/ them, they don't allow lightweight flywheels:
7.27 Fywheel
Flywheels may not be modified or lightened except for the purpose of balancing per 7.12 Flywheel resurfacing is limited to 0.030 inches (tolerance is 0.004).
My car doesn't fit the spec in many ways. This car isn't ever gonna fit perfectly into any class. I'll race it w/ TCRA, do OTC and Speedventures.
When we get around to making a s2k to race in a series we'll build one for that series.
When we get around to making a s2k to race in a series we'll build one for that series.
I saw this ACT flywheel once and i tought wow that would be fantastic on the S. So Keep us informed, i already have the comptech's one and i could easily use a lighter one.
And you're right about the heal-toe thing it's gonna be real fast !!
And you're right about the heal-toe thing it's gonna be real fast !!
It seems like lightening the flywheel without lightening the clutch disk and pressure plate will cause the engine RPMs to drop much quicker than the transmission RPMs. Wouldn't this make quick upshifts more difficult?
I'm not sure why lightening the clutch and/or pp also would make any detrimintal difference. The weight you are concerned about is the total weight of the main shaft, fly wheel, pp, clutch and crank combined. So if I needed more weight removed you can also look for it in the clutch of pressure plate.
So you lower the weight of one and it lowers the total weight.
Shifting will of course require more skill as if you don't shift before the rpms drop you'll have to blip the throttle to get them back up, but if you shift quickly while applying steady pressure the shifter will go into gear as the rpms are falling, if you miss you maintain the pressure and blip the throttle and catch it on the upswing.
So you lower the weight of one and it lowers the total weight.
Shifting will of course require more skill as if you don't shift before the rpms drop you'll have to blip the throttle to get them back up, but if you shift quickly while applying steady pressure the shifter will go into gear as the rpms are falling, if you miss you maintain the pressure and blip the throttle and catch it on the upswing.
Cannot take off too much mass or your heat transfere will go to crap and you will have limited clutch lif,e i suppose wiht a pucked clutch it could be less of a problem but then you have driveability issues. Remember that the FW is really only gonna see gains in 1-2 and maybe 3rd gear so it depends how much driveability you are willing to sacrifice.
ben
ben
I'm curious why you are wanting such a light unit. Did your Comptech make so much of a difference that you want to loose that last little bit? Have you considered just replacing all your pulleys? You can loose a couple pounds with the aluminum accessory pullies, and I saw an aluminum crank pulley on Pro Autosports web site.





