Link to diy timing chain replacement?
Just wondering if anyone has a link to a diy timing replacement or setting timing. Not that I need the work done but I wanted to know how it's done just in case for future reference. I looked on the sticky's and didn't find anything, I looked on YouTube and couldn't find anything. I'm just trying to learn different aspects of this motor.
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Honda made engines usually do not need routine timing chain replacement. AFAIK.
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Yeah I know:) but since I kind of already know how to rebuild b-series engines and feel confortable with them, my next step is to learn the s2000 engine some more |
The chain is driven by a small sprocket on the crankshaft, and connects to the idler gear which drives both camshafts.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNj..._id=880000500F The TCT (timing chain tensioner) puts pressure on the guide to keep the chain straight. When you remove the timing chain cover, loosen the TCT, there is enough room on the chain to remove the upper sprocket. The lower sprocket also drives the oilpump via a small chain. I'm not sure you have to remove this one in order to remove the timing chain. I do think so When mounting, timing the sprockets is pretty easy, there are some diy's on this forum |
best to pick up a shop manual if you want to tackle something like that, lots of little details that are part of the project including the timing mark alignment. I have not seen a DIY on this.
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The book calls for cylinder head removal and timing cover removal.
It can be done by oil pan removal and timing cover removal instead. Save major time. |
I am going to need to replace my timing chain. The Ballad Sports TCT stretched my chain and I can hear it whining while driving the car. Will I need to replace the guides as well? |
Can I remove the timing chain without removing the oil pump chain?
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Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24480665)
Can I remove the timing chain without removing the oil pump chain?
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Originally Posted by xDoodles
(Post 24480719)
Yes you can without removing the oil pump chain and get rid of that TCT and buy Billman's. You're lucky it hasn't caused any significant damage yet.
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Remove oil pan, and timing cover. Remove VC, TCT, camshafts, and camwheel. If makes sense to replace the guides if you are in there, but the primary parts are the chain and sprockets. Both sprockets need to be inspected for impressions. You will need to remove the oil pump chain to replace the lower sprocket. |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24480899)
Remove oil pan, and timing cover. Remove VC, TCT, camshafts, and camwheel. If makes sense to replace the guides if you are in there, but the primary parts are the chain and sprockets. Both sprockets need to be inspected for impressions. You will need to remove the oil pump chain to replace the lower sprocket. |
I found this one but not sure if its good or not. I typically put OEM parts on the car
https://www.ebay.com/i/283007266020?chn=ps |
Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24481481)
I found this one but not sure if its good or not. I typically put OEM parts on the car
https://www.ebay.com/i/283007266020?chn=ps |
For 80 bucks, you can best believe it is a bunch of junk. Get all oem components, do it right the first time. |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24481507)
For 80 bucks, you can best believe it is a bunch of junk. Get all oem components, do it right the first time. |
It’s just a matter of lining up the timing marks, quite simple. Can put up a pic if needed, but there are pics all over the UTH forum. |
So here's a list of things I am replacing:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...d3e9aee0bb.jpg Am I missing anything? I already have Bill's TCT. |
You wont need an oil pump chain and guides, up to you. Chain and sprockets, and two guides. Only other possible part is the camwheel bushing. If it shows any signs of wearing, it will need to be replaced or the entire engine will suffer an oil psi loss. Camwheel bushing damage is a direct result of chain overtightening. |
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10 is the spindle. The bushing is inside part #11. Likely not available separately. |
Updated parts list
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...18b8e29abe.png |
Get the spindle, and you are set. And grey permatex rtv silicon. |
I think I'm going to hire someone to do the install. I'm still uneasy about setting the timing on the car and I'd rather pay someone $800 to do the install than **** the timing and then have the tow the car to someone to fix the timing.
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Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24480663)
I am going to need to replace my timing chain. The Ballad Sports TCT stretched my chain and I can hear it whining while driving the car. Will I need to replace the guides as well? |
I'm beginning to worry I've got a similar situation going on, I installed a Ballade TCT last oil change and it sounds like my valvetrain is getting noisier. I had no issues at all with the install though, the TCT slid in without any resistance and went in flush. Backed the screw holding it together out as described in install too.
Do you have a video or example of what your car sounded like? |
Originally Posted by kraquepype
(Post 24486258)
I'm beginning to worry I've got a similar situation going on, I installed a Ballade TCT last oil change and it sounds like my valvetrain is getting noisier. I had no issues at all with the install though, the TCT slid in without any resistance and went in flush. Backed the screw holding it together out as described in install too.
Do you have a video or example of what your car sounded like? |
Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24486345)
I do but the sound is hard to hear. It sounds like timing chain slap coming from the front of the valve cover. |
Originally Posted by kraquepype
(Post 24486354)
Thanks... is it at a particular RPM? I notice increased valvetrain noise while driving, especially in areas where the sound can be echoed back, it isn't a whine though. At first I thought it was an exhaust leak but replacing the main donut gasket didn't really change it.
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Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24486191)
I think I'm going to hire someone to do the install. I'm still uneasy about setting the timing on the car and I'd rather pay someone $800 to do the install than **** the timing and then have the tow the car to someone to fix the timing.
If you can do the timing chain, setting the timing is a cake walk. Line up the mark on the crank when cyl 1 is on TDC. Then line up the idler gear marks to be parallel with the head. Then the camshalfs to be at 11/2 with the marks pointed at each other. Done. Takes all of 5 minutes. |
The first shop I took the car to just backed out of replacing it. They quoted me at $790 for the work but then realized its going to take much longer than they anticipated. Anyone want to come to Florida and help me do this? I will pay you.
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What's their new quote? The service manual procedure looks like an all day job with special tools so paying for the job done right would be my choice despite the expense.
Anyone know if it is possible to put a new chain in there from the top by connecting the new chain to the old and turning the engine until the new one comes around? Fraught with cautions regarding chain tension during the procedure so nothing slips but then you just have to pull the chain cover like you're considering now. Or maybe I dreamed this? :) Worth investigating. And a Billman TCT. -- Chuck |
Originally Posted by Chuck S
(Post 24491439)
What's their new quote? The service manual procedure looks like an all day job with special tools so paying for the job done right would be my choice despite the expense.
Anyone know if it is possible to put a new chain in there from the top by connecting the new chain to the old and turning the engine until the new one comes around? Fraught with cautions regarding chain tension during the procedure so nothing slips but then you just have to pull the chain cover like you're considering now. Or maybe I dreamed this? :) Worth investigating. And a Billman TCT. -- Chuck |
How the F*** do I take the crank pulley off???? My 650lb impact wrench is not breaking it loose.
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Oh man! Sorry, to hear you need to replace your timing chain. I always thought a Honda engine didn't need this, until the bitter end of its life. I remember changing timing chains, on my old BMW 2002Ti and 1602. There was a trick to tying the chain to the timing gears. Popping a link, then feeding a Mercedes 2-liter chain into the open link old BMW chain. Free up the wires holding the pulleys, then rotate the crank around the engine. Being sure not to skip a cog. Then, putting a master link onto the chain. Still had to pull the radiator and front cover to access the chain, guides, and tensioner. Had to use a Mercedes timing chain, as the BMW ones did not have a master link. 2-liter ones (I forget the specific model) were same length.
Guess you need to pull all the air cleaner accessories to gain good access to the chain cover. Maybe a good idea to lift the front end of the car, so the job won't be so back breaking. Just a thought. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24492786)
How the F*** do I take the crank pulley off???? My 650lb impact wrench is not breaking it loose.
Try using a heat gun to get the bolt and pulley nice and hot, then use lots of freezing spray or compressed air upside down right on the bolt. This will significantly decrease the torque needed to break it loose, 650lb might not be enough though. |
I have always used/needed a 3/4 drive breaker bar, a total of 4 feet long, and a Honda crank pulley holding tool. With the engine in the car, and the Honda tool pinned against the frame, I am pulling with all my might to break the crank bolt loose. The breakaway torque is immense. Dont bother with anything 1/2” drive or you will likely break it. |
With the method I described above I got my pulley loose with a ~3ft 1/2" breaker bar just pulling with arm strength :)
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Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24492877)
I have always used/needed a 3/4 drive breaker bar, a total of 4 feet long, and a Honda crank pulley holding tool. With the engine in the car, and the Honda tool pinned against the frame, I am pulling with all my might to break the crank bolt loose. The breakaway torque is immense. Dont bother with anything 1/2” drive or you will likely break it. What kind of silicone should I use to create the timing cover gasket? |
How do I remove the three bolts connecting the a/c compressor to the oil pan? Should I remove the two bolts attaching it to the oil pan mount?
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I've had the Ballade TCT for about 2-3 years now and have no issues with it. Replaced my TCT like 3-4 times over 60k miles before I got the Ballade TCT.
Is it typical that it stretched your chain? |
Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24492892)
How do I remove the three bolts connecting the a/c compressor to the oil pan? Should I remove the two bolts attaching it to the oil pan mount?
Remove the two lower AC comp bolts, the triangle bracket stays on the pan. |
Perhaps not "typical" but the Ballade TCT has caused excessive chain tension in some cars based on postings here.
-- Chuck |
Originally Posted by Chuck S
(Post 24493103)
Perhaps not "typical" but the Ballade TCT has caused excessive chain tension in some cars based on postings here.
-- Chuck |
Chain stretch or whining noise can be a result of improper installation of the Ballade TCT or any TCT. I use a Ballade TCT in my S/C S2000 and will use a Toda TCT in my NA S2000.
To 912S2K, LHT Performance is near you(150 miles away) if you run into trouble. Did you contact Ballade about the TCT? They would probably do a replacement. Did you oil the O rings and turn the crack pulley until minimal force was required to push the TCT in? |
Using either one of those with a new chain and guides will destroy the timing chain. The guide depth of a new OEM chain setup is far less than the fully compressed length of either unit. |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493446)
Using either one of those with a new chain and guides will destroy the timing chain. The guide depth of a new OEM chain setup is far less than the fully compressed length of either unit. |
Nothing is set in stone. The guide depth must accommodate the tensioner, with room for heat expansion. If any tensioner is drawn in with the bolts ANY amount (even 1/3 of a mm), the tensioner looses its ability to retract. The expansion will further tighten the chain and destroy it. 912S2k was able to get the ballade to sit near flush, but without room for retraction it overtightened the chain and damaged it. |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493500)
Nothing is set in stone. The guide depth must accommodate the tensioner, with room for heat expansion. If any tensioner is drawn in with the bolts ANY amount (even 1/3 of a mm), the tensioner looses its ability to retract. The expansion will further tighten the chain and destroy it. 912S2k was able to get the ballade to sit near flush, but without room for retraction it overtightened the chain and damaged it. Wait so are you saying any aftermarket TCT will damage a new timing chain??? I had to send you my OEM TCT when I bought yours... |
Mine will not, it is safe for a new chain and guide setup. |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493513)
Mine will not, it is safe for a new chain and guide setup. |
Need help with stuck timing cover |
Correct, my tensioner is not a bolt retraction style. Do you have a toda chain? |
Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24493517)
Need help with stuck timing cover |
Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24493517)
Need help with stuck timing cover You don't need to remove anything on the water pump. Here is a picture on my removed cover for help https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...b7974c1cee.jpg |
Originally Posted by jackmugen02
(Post 24493405)
Chain stretch or whining noise can be a result of improper installation of the Ballade TCT or any TCT. I use a Ballade TCT in my S/C S2000 and will use a Toda TCT in my NA S2000.
To 912S2K, LHT Performance is near you(150 miles away) if you run into trouble. Did you contact Ballade about the TCT? They would probably do a replacement. Did you oil the O rings and turn the crack pulley until minimal force was required to push the TCT in? |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493518)
Correct, my tensioner is not a bolt retraction style. Do you have a toda chain? |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493513)
Mine will not, it is safe for a new chain and guide setup.
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493518)
Correct, my tensioner is not a bolt retraction style. Do you have a toda chain?
Originally Posted by flanders
(Post 24493522)
There is a dovel pin low down on each side, if you pry one side to much this might stop you from getting the other side free.
You don't need to remove anything on the water pump. Here is a picture on my removed cover for help
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493519)
There is a shorter hidden bolt on the drivers side. Be sure they are all out. |
Originally Posted by jackmugen02
(Post 24493525)
Installing Toda timing, oil pump chains and Ballade timing chain gear are on my to do list for both of my S2000's(I already have the parts), along with WPC treating the gears/sprocket.
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Originally Posted by 912S2k
(Post 24493528)
Are you WPC treating the whole gear set? I'm considering doing that to mine to help extend the life of them. Do you know what the average turnaround time is?
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Why the ballade gear? It will throw off the cam timing, especially with a new chain. |
Originally Posted by jackmugen02
(Post 24493515)
A PM from you in May: " Using ANY bolt-retraction style tensioner with a new chain will over tighten it. It will put the equivalent of 100k on the chain in 2000 miles. I also recommend putting 1000 miles on the new chain using an OEM tensioner, before installing mine." Maybe this is because I'm not installing a new guide setup?
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So for anyone who's planning on doing this in the future, here is the service manual for starting the removal. I have not had to remove the head though.
https://workshop-manuals.com/honda/s...chain_removal/ |
Originally Posted by Billman250
(Post 24493531)
Why the ballade gear? It will throw off the cam timing, especially with a new chain. |
I had to hire a mechanic to finish the job. I tore my left shoulder cutting trees this weekend.
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Is there a break in period for the chain?
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Update: Car was driving great but I got rear ended this weekend and think I fragged my transmission. I hear a very loud whine coming from the transmission now in any gear :/
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