Well i adjusted the fronts and i am close to where i want to be. I did not adjust the rear because it seemed like it would be low enough. I was wrong and the rear is basically at stock height.

Do i have to remove the coilovers to adjust the height? Or can i do it from the spring perches and re-adjust the pre-load? I really want to avoid taking them back off if i can. Thanks!

 

No you do not need to remove the coils at all. My terminology may be a little off and the below is in leymans terms...

I actually just adjusted mine tonight and am going to post up pics in the next day or so.

Get the rear of your car jacked up with the wheels off.
Get out your coilover wrenches.
Loosen the bottom locking nut and spin it UP to give yourself some space.
Make sure the two locking nuts at the bottom of the spring are tightened together
Now, take the large wrench and screw the bottom perch locking nut CLOCKWISE.
The black threaded part, all the locking nuts, and the spring will spin DOWN together.
This basically spins the coilover into the bottom piece that is bolted to the control arm
NOTE: If the two locking nuts are moving freely, you need to tighten them together more.

I have Megan's (Track) as well and my measurements were as follows to get approx 1 finger gap (measured it was approx 7/8" gap), your car may vary a little:

My rear coilover came with what I call the spring length of 7 and 3/4 inches. This measurement is from the top of the spring to the bottom of the small locking nut. In other words, the spring length + the two lower locking nuts as a frame of reference.

To get the 1 finger gap, the "gap" between the bottom of the two locking nuts and the top of the bottom locking nut was 1.5" on the right rear, and 1.25" on the left rear.

For some reason I have a .25" variance between the right and left to get them to be the exact same height. Anyone have any insight on this?

Hope that helps, also while you have the car jacked up and the wheel off, make sure everything is torqued down with the suspension loaded.

Hope that helps.

Also for the record my "baseline" on the rear was a 2" gap between bottom perch and lower locking nut (as measured above), and the result of that was a approx gap b/w the tire and wheel well of 1.5" (right) and 1.75" (left). Looked too close to stock for me so I went lower as described above.

I found it helpful to break out a pen and notepad and measure off my baseline, and then write the adjustment I wanted down, then shoot for those measurements on the coilover, lower the car down and write down the result. I just happen to get my target height on my first chance. A log will help any future adjustments you want to make, not to mention, it may help someone out on the forums.

ALSO, I think the above method will work for just about any three nut system coilover.

edited for spelling.

 

last step is go get an alignment. any time you change your suspension geometry, I think that would be a good idea.. so get it where you want it and leave it there.. unless you just don't care

 

for sure, go get an alignment.

My car is pulling to the right slightly. I have to make one slight adjustment today, then i'm going to a shop to get aligned and corner balanced.

 

very good info! thats exactly what i was looking for! now, you say use a big wrench. Cant i use the spanner wrench to turn it? as long as im turning clockwise.

 

Use the big spanner wrench that came with the coilovers. You should have two of the megan wrenches. There is one wrench that tighten/loosens the bottom locking nut and the lower perch nut, and one big one that turns the nut that the spring rests on directly.

You want to unluck the bottom locking nut with the small wrench and spin it up, then take the bigger spanner wrench and spin the entire assebly clockwise, using the locking nut that the springs rests on.

That make sense?

 

got it! Thanks a ton man! i would have ended up taking the damn things off because i didnt want to mess with the spring pre-load.

 

What shop are you going too? I'd like to know where to go to get it corner balanced and aligned in Myrtle.

 

I am going to try Mason Tire on Hwy 544.

 

cool so i went and adjusted everything! so its not a problem that the shaft spins right? I always thought it was bad if the hydraulic rod spun.