^ That is maybe the worst advice I've ever heard. The logic is that if shoots a rod through the block, that makes the teardown much simpler.

 

the shape of the oil pan makes it hard to get a good reading as oil level drops. Checking both sides of the stick is helpful observing the low reading

 

They're overpriced. Check the spark plugs at least. Is the engine knocking or does it sound like a Subaru?

 

Please do yourself a favor and take the car to an S2000 specialist. Your mechanic may know how to rebuild engines in general, but these engines aren't your garden variety 350'd hate to see someone spend all that money on a rebuild and have continuing issues. I'd highly recommend taking it over to InlinePro in Northern Virginia to have them take a look - who knows, it may not even be necessary to rebuild the engine and they can give you an honest opinion (not to mention their several different engine package options if a new/rebuilt engine is the end result of diagnosis).

 

I took my S2K for an alignment at a Firestone one time they did a 'courtesy inspection' recommended I replace my blown head gasket. This was 30k miles ago and I've been boosting for years with it, perfect compression and leakdown lol.

 

A few things that can be checked easily at home. Remove vtec solenoid and check screen for debris, cut open oil filter and look for debris. Drain oil and look for glitter (easiest).

Harder, few hours in the driveway - Oil pan and girdle can be dropped and rod bearings can be checked this way (spun bearing - very common failure mode when low on oil). Another option is to remove spark plugs and scope to look at walls

 

Hey just wanted to update everyone who helped out. Bought a used 05 f22c from ebay with about the same mileage as my old engine. Got it swapped in and the car seems to be running fine so far. Does an occasional wobble in low rpms but hasn't stalled. Will take it to the recommended shops to let them take a look at it and see what else needs to be done to make it last. Thanks again for everyone's help and advice!

 

If you have not driven it much yet, the idle wobble may just be because the idle relearn procedure needs to be performed

 

Another thing to consider is checking the valves, plugs, and coil packs. Tight valves are known to cause a bit of a rough idle as would the more obvious misfire/ignition related issues.

Having bought a used engine, I think baselining valve adjustments and plugs is a definite must do.

 

05 ecu as well?