Motor/trans install
Hello guys I am replacing my motor and transmission when I get home on leave at the end of this week, and have a couple quick questions.
1.) The car is a MY01 AP1, and is being replaced with a MY0? AP1 motor, will it be essentially the same as putting the engine that came out of it back in as far as wiring issues and everything?
2.) I am buying the motor and transmission separate, obviously am going to have to fork out the money for a clutch, (probably stg 5 CM
). Would it be easier to put it all together outside the bay and drop motor and trans same time?
And if their are any other issues you know that I may run into please, let me know! Thanks a lot.
Brendan
1.) The car is a MY01 AP1, and is being replaced with a MY0? AP1 motor, will it be essentially the same as putting the engine that came out of it back in as far as wiring issues and everything?
2.) I am buying the motor and transmission separate, obviously am going to have to fork out the money for a clutch, (probably stg 5 CM
). Would it be easier to put it all together outside the bay and drop motor and trans same time? And if their are any other issues you know that I may run into please, let me know! Thanks a lot.
Brendan
Thanks for the help, and I was also wondering if anyone knew what should be done for an engine that has been sitting for about 2 years, and not ran? As far as what prep work should be done for the motor to fire up? Thanks..
Originally Posted by brendanj85,Dec 14 2009, 04:55 PM
Thanks for the help, and I was also wondering if anyone knew what should be done for an engine that has been sitting for about 2 years, and not ran? As far as what prep work should be done for the motor to fire up? Thanks..

from Above.
1. Yes.
2. Yes, but only if you have a lift and are installing them from below the car. I.E. You dropped them out the bottom, with the sub frame and install them the same way. Otherwise you have to install the motor, install the clutch and then the trany.
Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Dec 14 2009, 02:00 PM
Replace all fluids 
from Above.
1. Yes.
2. Yes, but only if you have a lift and are installing them from below the car. I.E. You dropped them out the bottom, with the sub frame and install them the same way. Otherwise you have to install the motor, install the clutch and then the trany.

from Above.
1. Yes.
2. Yes, but only if you have a lift and are installing them from below the car. I.E. You dropped them out the bottom, with the sub frame and install them the same way. Otherwise you have to install the motor, install the clutch and then the trany.
i agree, i have done this install a bunch of times and pulling the motor/trans attached to the subframe from under the car is the easiest.
i have forked out the motor and trans as one piece using the cherry picker from above. it was out of a totaled s2k so we didnt really care about damaging the tunnel wall and firewall.
the only way to pull it out clean is to drop the trans from underneath then pull the motor from the top.
good luck and patience is key...
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About starting it for the first time: I've disconnected the injectors (electrically) and the spark plug connectors.
You could remove the spark plugs too.
Then push the start button for 10 seconds, wait a while and push it again.
That way you'll get some oil everywhere before you really start it.
During this the oil pressure light didn't go off on my car so you're not getting a lot of oil pressure (= flow).
The service manual mentioned to pull the fuel pump fuse to turn the engine over without starting (to test the starter motor) but that didn't work for me.
Without the fuel pump fuse the ECU wouldn't go past the initial prime procedure and the starter would not turn at all.
I don't know why.
You could remove the spark plugs too.
Then push the start button for 10 seconds, wait a while and push it again.
That way you'll get some oil everywhere before you really start it.
During this the oil pressure light didn't go off on my car so you're not getting a lot of oil pressure (= flow).
The service manual mentioned to pull the fuel pump fuse to turn the engine over without starting (to test the starter motor) but that didn't work for me.
Without the fuel pump fuse the ECU wouldn't go past the initial prime procedure and the starter would not turn at all.
I don't know why.
Put a bit of oil, maybe 20 drops in each cylinder through the spark plug hole, and then turn the engine clockwise (facing the pulley) by hand a few revolutions. Use a 19mm socket on a 1/2" drive. That'll get the cylinder liner oiled.
The reason is if an engine sits for a while, the rings might 'stick' to the cyl wall. And if you try to start quick, it could cause scoring.
Also, check and double-check for rat's nests, bad rubber hoses, etc. Double-check all cavities for foreign bodies, trash, leaves, illegal immigrants, etc...
The reason is if an engine sits for a while, the rings might 'stick' to the cyl wall. And if you try to start quick, it could cause scoring.
Also, check and double-check for rat's nests, bad rubber hoses, etc. Double-check all cavities for foreign bodies, trash, leaves, illegal immigrants, etc...






