QSilver7

Long story short, I missed a 2nd-3rd shift a few days ago at redline and bounced off the rev limiter. I was on the gas when I missed the gate on the upshift and the revs shot up a bit into the red.

When I came to a light a minute or so later I got a CEL and the idle was rough. Now I figured I either knocked a plug/wire loose or something. Car drove fine the next day other than the rough idle, engine smooth once over 5mph, and I couldn't tell a difference from the day before.

CEL was still on (flashing) so I scanned it and it pulled codes 0301 - 0304 and a 3199 which are all misfire codes for each cylinder. Next time I turned the car on, it died about 5 minutes in and is now parked on the side of the road. It starts, haven't tried to move it but it runs really rough and won't hold an idle (just dies if I don't give it gas). Just from the sound of it, it doesn't sound bad enough as if a valve dropped into the cylinder or anything but again, it runs really bad.

I've read all the posts I could find on overrevs/bent valves, etc and it seems most of them are due to dropping into too low of a gear at the speed you are going (I however was on the upshift and basically in neutral in midshift). I'm really hoping it's something really small like an ECU problem or MAP sensor but I just have a bad feeling about it and not looking forward to tearing this engine down if I need to.

Any help here would be appreciated as I don't know what I should do

alex s

that sucks man. i feel for you.

but just to clarify, you meant to shift into 3rd and went into first right? you didnt just hit the rev-limiter did you? if you hit the rev-limiter in 2nd this is probably a seperate issue.


if you mechanically over-revved, this is most likely a valve issue. you probably screwed something up majorly in your valvetrain. sounds like a mangled valve to me, and i dont mean bent. i mean mangled. it could've also blown a ring or two depending on the severity. how does it sound when you turn it over?

either way, you need to have it towed home, or to a shop or something and have the head pulled. or if you have a friend with a truck, pull it behind that. get it to a shop though. while the have the engine apart, have them check the pistons, the rings, and probably the rods for any stress cracks and might want to have them check your bearing to see if any spun. that may be going a little overboard, but you might as well have that stuff check while the motor is apart instead of discovering it later on. over-revving a motor can reak a lot of havoc.

the bill won't be pretty for this rebuild. good luck my man!

jerrypeterson

Just to be clear you *may* have overrevved on an upshift???

Have you performed any other diagnostics besides pulling the codes? While that is a great first step, there are some inexpensive diagnostics you can perform before biting the proverbial bullet.

1. Pull the spark plugs and pray three of them are hosed.
2. Replace the fuel in the gas tank (you may have bad gasoline)
3. Compression test to determine if the combustion chamber is sealing properly If the results are unsatifactory, focus on rings by performing a leak down test.

Failing these three, things start to get expensive in time or money. If the combustion chamber is not sealing first pull the valve cover and check tolerances for anything that you can reach. Most over revs result in cracked valve seats, but to determine that, you will need to remove the head. It gets nastier from there.

It is a very remote possiblity, but you may have hopped a tooth on the cam chain. But you would be the first person I've heard of doing this on a F20C.

Utah S2K

I am confused......
"CEL was still on (flashing) so I scanned it and it pulled codes 0301 - 0304 and a 3199 which are all misfire codes for each cylinder".

3199 is in error as this number is not supported as a code in OBD-II. Specifically the first digit can only be "0" which means it is a code deined by SAE or "1" a code defined by the manufacturer. You sure you didn't mean 1399?

I don't know what a 1399 code is but "1" would mean Honda defined and "3" would indicate an ignition system misfire.

Utah

QSilver7

Thanks guys - yes I did overrev it while in mid-shift in that it revved past 9K into the red before finally getting into the gate. I definitely didn't experience any fuel cutoff and have a hard time believing that I could have possibly did this much damage with a missed upshift. I called the closest Honda dealer which luckily is about 1 mile from where the car is and they're going to take a look at it.

Utah - could have been 3199 - I have them written down at home. The associated message was "Random/Multiple misfire".

Wisconsin S2k

you mean 1399. lol 3199 is an invalid code too.

QSilver7

Yeah, 1399 Well, I'm taking it to Honda in the morning. We'll see what they say. I figure after they eliminate all the little stuff they're going to want $400-$500 to pull the head and tell me I have god knows what to replace...

CrazyPhuD

You said that the CEL was flashing correct? Check in the manual, I believe it specificly mentions that a flashing CEL is in need of immediate attention and should not be driven on. You may have done more damage by driving on it than by towing it home. Future reference for eveyone

lukemc01

I was going to say that also. I had a CEL go off last mo. The first thing the service departments asked was if it was flashing or solid. Solid was safe to drive on - usually emissions (many times not closing the gas cap securely) while flashing meant pull over immediately and flatbed to nearest service center. I think you might have done further damage to your engine...sorry

Shadow_S2K

So you were in 2nd...and started to shift into 3rd. But in the middle (with the clutch still down...and the shifter inbetween the 2nd and 3rd gear gate) you hit the rev limiter and went into redline...then you shifted into 3rd?

So you never went into 1st gear?