My wheel studs are broken...
Well so much for the day trip I had planned for tommorow. I just noticed today that one of my lug nuts is missing and two more are about to fall off. I can wiggle them with one finger. And this is the second time this has happend and on the same wheel!!!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...+my+lug+nuts+go
Looks like it's back to the dealer. I still have the paperwork and the receipt states "all service and repairs performed with genuine Honda parts are covered by a 12 month/12,000 mile warrantly. Well, it's been 6 months and 6,700 miles. Hopefully this doesn't keep happening.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...+my+lug+nuts+go
Looks like it's back to the dealer. I still have the paperwork and the receipt states "all service and repairs performed with genuine Honda parts are covered by a 12 month/12,000 mile warrantly. Well, it's been 6 months and 6,700 miles. Hopefully this doesn't keep happening.
I've heard of other people having problems, but there is clearly something wrong with your car.
A whole bunch of people are going to suggest that they are over-torqued, but actually under-torquing is more likely to cause this to happen. For some reason, your studs are being fatigued. Living right by the ocean probably only exacerbates the problem.
I would guess that there is some play somewhere. Perhaps the wheels don't sit flush enough against the rotors, or perhaps the nuts don't seat correctly against the wheels. But for some reason you are getting an unusual amount of cyclic fatigue. It looks like the cracks are occuring right at the end of the nut?
Pull the studs out and measure the threads. If they have not "stretched", then it is very unlikely to be over-torqued.
A whole bunch of people are going to suggest that they are over-torqued, but actually under-torquing is more likely to cause this to happen. For some reason, your studs are being fatigued. Living right by the ocean probably only exacerbates the problem.
I would guess that there is some play somewhere. Perhaps the wheels don't sit flush enough against the rotors, or perhaps the nuts don't seat correctly against the wheels. But for some reason you are getting an unusual amount of cyclic fatigue. It looks like the cracks are occuring right at the end of the nut?
Pull the studs out and measure the threads. If they have not "stretched", then it is very unlikely to be over-torqued.
Based on the photo in the other thread, I assume that this is happening to aftermarket wheels mounted on the front of the car.
1) Make sure that the correct style of lug nut is being used. Honda OEM wheels uses a conical seat and many aftermarket wheels use taper seats.
2) Confirm that the wheel is hub-centric. If the studs are supporting the weight of the vehicle, that could cause stress to them.
3) If only the two broken wheel studs were replaced last time, it's not too surprising if 2 more (of the old ones) broke a little later on. Make sure that ALL are replaced.
4) Use a very light coating of anti-sieze on the threads of the studs. Some will argue with this suggestion since most torque values are for clean, dry fasteners, but I have found that real-world conditions require the judicious use of anti-sieze in certain applications. This prevents galling and metal transfer.
5) Always make sure that the lug nuts are torqued properly.
HTH
1) Make sure that the correct style of lug nut is being used. Honda OEM wheels uses a conical seat and many aftermarket wheels use taper seats.
2) Confirm that the wheel is hub-centric. If the studs are supporting the weight of the vehicle, that could cause stress to them.
3) If only the two broken wheel studs were replaced last time, it's not too surprising if 2 more (of the old ones) broke a little later on. Make sure that ALL are replaced.
4) Use a very light coating of anti-sieze on the threads of the studs. Some will argue with this suggestion since most torque values are for clean, dry fasteners, but I have found that real-world conditions require the judicious use of anti-sieze in certain applications. This prevents galling and metal transfer.
5) Always make sure that the lug nuts are torqued properly.
HTH
Originally Posted by CoralDoc,Oct 3 2004, 04:31 AM
1) Make sure that the correct style of lug nut is being used. Honda OEM wheels uses a conical seat and many aftermarket wheels use taper seats.
Originally Posted by CoralDoc,Oct 3 2004, 05:31 AM
1) Make sure that the correct style of lug nut is being used. Honda OEM wheels uses a conical seat and many aftermarket wheels use taper seats.
sorry for the repeat.. I see it was stated above.
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I'm not sure if the studs that failed this time are the same that failed last. At least one them is, since 3 broke last time and 3 this time. I only had the broken studs replaced last time, not all of them. I have access to a two-post hydrualic lift and will be pulling all the wheels off and verifying that the hubcentric rings are in place and that the correct ones are installed. I really don't think it was because the wheels were over torqued. The lugs that are installed are the ones that were shipped with the wheels. I still have the OEM lugs and wheels and compared the two. The lugs are not the same. Like you guys said, the OEM have more of a rounded seat.



