Hi all!

I used the search but didn't found anything similar.

My S had vibrating and clunks you could feel and hear. I bought MY04 diff and replaced the old one. Changed the diff oil, Mobil 75W-90, and made test run.

The shakes were gone and clunks also, But while turning left, something broke up.
Towed up my car back to garage and we discovered that drivers side axle assembly was broken. To be more specific, the shaft/rod/axle had come out from the inner CV joint. I don't really now how to explain it more but it was out from the inner CV joint and stucked there on the CV joints edge.

So as we made the measurements. The distance from the middle of the diff's oil cap to the flange/the one where you fast the inner CV with 6 bolts, was almost 1 cm shorter in MY04 diff than in the MY00, but the passenger side distance was the same. So I was wondering is there any chance that MY04 Axles are different size than the MY00, or is there any other reason for this failure?

It sounds so stupid that when we changed the diff, everything worked out perfectly and then the CV blew up.... What do you think is the best solution to this? To buy new MY04 driver's side axle or buy both of them, just to be sure that the passenger side don't blow up next, while turning right

Sorry the language and terms, and also I would really need some advice from you, Thanx!

 

When the axle was originally removed, one of the bearings fell off the spider on the inner CV. The axle needs to remain compressed to avoid this.

 

Thanks! You mean that even if I don't take the axle apart, or the inner CV joint, while it is only hanging there freely without the diff, it can fell off? If so the problem is solved. But is there really the 1 cm difference between MY00 and MY04 diffs? ot is my MY04 diff in someway broken ?

 

I'm pretty sure difs/axles are the same...can't be sure 100%

YES....if the inner CV joint is pulled far enough from the axle shaft, the bearing inside that is facing downwards (1 of 3) will easily fall into the boot. When you drive it will self destruct right away.

I think your 04 dif will be fine

 

Thanks for the good info, So I'll make the deal then with my friend for the 02 axle.

The other question is as I noticed here:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...my04+diff"

I didn't made any change between the input flanges, I didn't if I had to, because it just dropped there perfectly? There wasn't anything problem with the MY00 driveshaft/propeller shaft flange to screw it fast to new diff? Is it gonna hold/work?

OR do I even have an MY04 diff, because I just trusted the seller who sold me the new diff? because I think that you can't really see the difference between the pumpkins...

 

04 dif uses bigger bolts where the driveshaft connects.

Only way it would have small holes is if the seller had it installed in an 00-03 car and swaped the flanges.

If it's a new dif, it's not an 04

 

Ok, it's not a new diff, and it was bought from the broker in UK. But everything seems to be normal. The diff works and doesn't have any "loose" while moving it, and the LSD seems to be working normally also. It can be MY00-MY03 diff because the driveshaft went on without problems.

And the problem was broken CV joints bearings most likely. It was only my own stupidity what made the failure. I really appreciate your help, thanks!

 

even the euros got the different diffs for 04? i know the engine stayed the same so i would think the rest would too?

 

Well that is the good question. Or what about in UK, their cars are right-hand drives, so are they JDM cars? Because they bring many of their cars straight from the Japan. It might explain why the drivers side ouput flange is closer to pumpkin than my euro one. I don't know, just guessing.

And my new diff is from UK, so it is from right-hand drive car.

 

It could be that the new diff flanges only come with the 2.2L motor. I don't have access to Euro parts lists, so I can't confirm. You might want to ask your dealer to look them up on their parts computer.