My clutch as been in my car since the beginning of this year and is been good until I replaced my slave cylinder cause my pedal was sticking so after that my pedal never felt the same real soft feel not as stiff and lower engagement so fast forward it was still sticking so i replaced the cmc and added a steel braided line since i was doing all this already sticking is gone bleed the system extensively both the pumping and hold way and gravity way too still the clutch doesn't feel the same as it use to still low engagement and weak feeling I researched the adjusting the pedal and done the best I can and still nothing been at it for a while now I'll continue tomorrow but wondering if anyone could shed some light on this or tell me some one trust worthy to take it to around central texas killeen area, thanks don't know if this will make a difference but it's a stage 2 act clutch kit and light flywheel

 

im no expert, but from what i have read on others problems, sounds like might still be some air in the line. if not, try to snoop all over and look for a leak for where air could get drawn in. double check slave again make sure everything is correct.

 

The clutch will not bleed properly if the freeplay is incorrect. Look up under the dash, make sure you have not over adjusted the rod to a point where it is pushing the piston in at all.

 

Ok so if I back up the rod so there is free play just to bleed the system that should ensure I have bleed the system correctly then go back and try to adjust the pedal that should work right

 

No. set the clutch adjustment correctly now. You can't just back it off, set it correctly. I've been posting the same thing for 10 years, just search for my posts on how to do it.

 

Copy/paste from and older thread:

Rest assured you can dial out all play in the rod to zero freeplay in the LINKAGE, not the master piston.

I have been trying to convey this for years and it is just too much to grasp I guess.

The only way your clutch pedal would be slightly engaging is if you continued to turn the rod until the piston moved past the point of the fluid hole.

Feel the free play first with one finger. You will feel two distinct and separate freeplays on a non adjusted car.

The first is rod-slop, dial it out. All of it.

The second is master piston movement, leave this alone. This is the built in master 0 pressure zone.

EVEN if you were to dial out all freeplay, then further adjust the rod to a point where it moves the piston 10% into the 0 pressure zone, you would still be safe and your clutch is not engaged at all.

This is why zero clutch rod freeplay is 100% safe and the most effective. You do not need to leave any slop in the rod or play at all. You still have another 1/4" or so of master 0 pressure zone before any engagement happens.

So to answer OP, yes if will dialed out BOTH freeplays, your clutch pedal would always be under pressure or engagement. This is not what we are doing, but I'm sure that's how your guy took it.

 

When you are confident the rod is set correctly, I will show you how to get the pedal/air/bleed correct.

 

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Ok thanks I'll deff let you know when I get it done

 

Ok Billman I got the rod play to zero or at least as close as possible without actually moving the piston where to now?