Need help - key will NOT turn in ignition.
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,256
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From: WPB
Originally Posted by osnap,Jun 10 2010, 03:43 PM
Well, thanks for all the advice everybody. I went to the dealer and had a chipless key cut, and got some graphite grease. Neither worked. Called a locksmith to take a look at the cylinder. After arriving 2 hours late, he showed up, put the key on the ignition, and beat the living crap out of it with a hammer, to my dismay.
Somehow, it worked... Sorta. The key turns now, but not smoothly at all. It has to kinda be forced. He says the ignition is on it's last leg. The guy was there for 5 minutes, and told me it'd be 150 bucks, and that would act as a deposit for when I have the ignition replaced for another $500 later. After I told him there was no way on hell I was paying him $150 to hit my key with a hammer, he told me 100, and I pretty much had to pony up. Highway robbery, but what can you do? I guess at least the windows are up now.
Somehow, it worked... Sorta. The key turns now, but not smoothly at all. It has to kinda be forced. He says the ignition is on it's last leg. The guy was there for 5 minutes, and told me it'd be 150 bucks, and that would act as a deposit for when I have the ignition replaced for another $500 later. After I told him there was no way on hell I was paying him $150 to hit my key with a hammer, he told me 100, and I pretty much had to pony up. Highway robbery, but what can you do? I guess at least the windows are up now.
J
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,938
Likes: 4
From: Sydney
There is a reprogramming required. The new lock barrel comes with 2 keys that your ECU is not programmed for. You can still start the car by making sure the key reader reads the codes off your existing key. You could unscrew the key reader and cable tie your existing key to it and hide it under the console covers.
When you are next at the dealer they can then program your new keys into your ECU and you can chuck the original key.
The key has a chip inside the plastic handle that the key reader interrogates a code from when you start the car. The only thing connecting it to the physical key code/lock barrel is the key body itself.
When you are next at the dealer they can then program your new keys into your ECU and you can chuck the original key.
The key has a chip inside the plastic handle that the key reader interrogates a code from when you start the car. The only thing connecting it to the physical key code/lock barrel is the key body itself.
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From: Atlanta GA
Ah, I see - simple enough.
However, here's the problem. From what I can see on Majestic's diagram (See bottom of post), it seems the ignition cylinder kit is nearly 400 alone (including the 2 keys, as you mentioned). Once you factor in the fee for programming the keys (which I know is a lot heftier than most realize), we're talking somewhere in the $500+ ballpark for what is essentially a DIY, where as the guy who now has my $100 "deposit" (ugh) would essentially get me out the door for ~400.
I'll have to check with him and be extra sure that he has the necessary equipment to actually program this and make it work PROPERLY without the need for a trip to the dealer to shell out more cash, but he seemed fairly competent, knew very well what immobilizers were and how they worked (you'd think this would be a given, but sadly I was relieved when I mentioned an immobilizer and he didn't give me a perplexed look), so I'm assuming the ballpark quote that he gave me took that into account.
Subtracting the 100 bucks and the 10% discount he offers for calling through his website, I have a feeling that route would come out cheaper, without me having to squeeze myself under the steering column and break my neck working on it for a few hours.
Aforementioned Majestic Diagram and Part Number
1776191, Ilustration 001 - CYLINDER SET, KEY *NH167L* - LIST: $528.57 , OUR PRICE: $380.57
EDIT
...wait... unless I'm wrong and its illustration #2 that I need, 436215 LOCK ASSY., STEERING LIST 318.70 OUR PRICE 229.46
although even still, after programming, I'm probably right back there in the same 400 neighborhood
However, here's the problem. From what I can see on Majestic's diagram (See bottom of post), it seems the ignition cylinder kit is nearly 400 alone (including the 2 keys, as you mentioned). Once you factor in the fee for programming the keys (which I know is a lot heftier than most realize), we're talking somewhere in the $500+ ballpark for what is essentially a DIY, where as the guy who now has my $100 "deposit" (ugh) would essentially get me out the door for ~400.
I'll have to check with him and be extra sure that he has the necessary equipment to actually program this and make it work PROPERLY without the need for a trip to the dealer to shell out more cash, but he seemed fairly competent, knew very well what immobilizers were and how they worked (you'd think this would be a given, but sadly I was relieved when I mentioned an immobilizer and he didn't give me a perplexed look), so I'm assuming the ballpark quote that he gave me took that into account.
Subtracting the 100 bucks and the 10% discount he offers for calling through his website, I have a feeling that route would come out cheaper, without me having to squeeze myself under the steering column and break my neck working on it for a few hours.
Aforementioned Majestic Diagram and Part Number
1776191, Ilustration 001 - CYLINDER SET, KEY *NH167L* - LIST: $528.57 , OUR PRICE: $380.57
EDIT
...wait... unless I'm wrong and its illustration #2 that I need, 436215 LOCK ASSY., STEERING LIST 318.70 OUR PRICE 229.46
although even still, after programming, I'm probably right back there in the same 400 neighborhood
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