Hey guys first post. My names jared swink I'm in the coast guard stationed in galveston texas. I have a my04 suzuka s2k with 120k on the clock. Well anyways I think I ran her a little low on oil which turned into what I think was a spun bearing. I tried limping it home but pulling into my apartment she locked up. It won't crank I'm guessing a connecting rod is bouncing around in there. At this point I'm just trying to decide what to do.
1. How much is it worth ( great shape just the motor issue ) 8k?
2. If I sink the money into getting it done how am I going to get the most bang for my buck?
3. I think I would be happy with 260whp if that's crazy expensive then I guess I'll just pick up another stock motor and go fi in the future.
4. K series swap.

What would you guys do? I'm sure someone on here's been in my position. Going to get a loan to get the work done
So I just want to make sure I spend it wisely. Whether its 2k or 6k. Thanks guys

 

I blew a motor. Replaced it with a used one and moved on. 260whp is in kind of a deadzone for S2K's. Its usually stock-240whp NA or FI 300whp+

 

1. A new motor is going to cost somebody at least $3-4k with parts and labor to install and they will have the time and hassle involved in finding a suitable motor and waiting for the installation and some people are just worried about any car that has had the motor swapped as they wonder what else might be wrong with the car. An 04 with 120k miles is worth about $12k, given the price of installing the new motor and the other variables mentioned I would say asking around $7-8k would be reasonable.
2. Bolt-on modifications like intake/header/exhaust do little more than make noise. The biggest power gain for a non-FI motor would be through engine tuning, but this is not as easy on s2ks prior to 2006 as they can't use the plugnplay Hondata system. IMO, it isn't worth trying to make more power on this car unless you go FI.
3. 260whp without FI would be very expensive...
4. Also very expensive

In your position, I would just have a low-mileage used motor with a warranty installed and keep all documentation of the swap in case you decide to sell the car. I got over the desire to spend tons of money on bolt-ons that don't make much power when I was a teenager. I enjoy the s2k as is as far as power goes and I would spend money on handling mods if anything to further improve on the s2k's strengths. Keep in mind that if you do boost your s2k, you will really have to stay on top of maintenance. If you truly feel like you want a lot more power, fix the s2k, sell it and buy a car that is boosted from the factory or has a larger engine/more horsepower as is.
It is very unusual for AP2s to burn any noticeable amount of oil, so I am perplexed by your statement "Well anyways I think I ran her a little low on oil which turned into what I think was a spun bearing". Was the oil level low or not? If so, did you have a large oil leak or notice the oil level dropping rapidly in the past? Did your oil pressure warning light come on and if so why did you continue to drive it? Was the engine knocking when you were driving it? Is the only symptom that you are going on to assume the engine is toast the fact that you can't get it to crank up now? You might as well at least pinpoint the problem before dumping money into fixing the car. Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost you between selling your old motor and buying-installing the used one?

 

The oil level was in between the low mark and the bottom of the dipstick. No lights came on and vtec always worked. I drove it because I was very close to home. Not sure about oil loss as I've only had the car for a month. Oil level was always good until when this happened. So I guess it lost oil at the time of the failure.

 

Did you check both sides of the dip stick? If one side reads full and the other reads empty then you need to add oil. ALWAYS GO BY THE LOWER SIDE. Could be very well what cost you your engine. Well that and the idea of driving it home knowing it was oil starved and causing even more damage. You might have been able to skate with a less costly repair if you wouldn't have driven it after the fact.

 

Now that I think about it I don't think I looked at both sides of the dipstick until the damage was done. But I pulled the plugs and it still won't crank. Seems like a used engine is the way to go.

 

Yes if its locked up the cost will be very high to repair. find a motor.

 

I think a brand new ap2 shotblock costs me 2780.

3200 for ap1.

 

Thanks guys. Question answered.