I have just got my car back from the garage after they fitted a new dual pass radiator and Modifry temp. fix for my AEM ECU.

I went for a 20mins. drive around town and the engine temps. shot up. The gauge went to 3/4 and I could smell the engine.

Previously even with a crusty old OEM radiator which was shot to bits my engine temps. stayed nice and low even on a warm
day.

On top of this my alarm fob is now not operating the alarm, I have replaced the battery and it is still not working.

My first thought is that the engine coolant isn't circulating properly following the coolant flush with air trapped in the system.
But with remote key fob also not working I am confused.

Could anyone please advise ?


Thanks

 

Do you have heat blowing out of the ventilation system ?, the first suspect is air in the cooling system, a sign of that is that you don't get hot air blowing out of the heating system.

They may have missed connecting the coalant temp switch or the radiator fans, you might want to check to see that they are connected and the fans come on. Don't drive it very far until you get this fixed as you can warp the head and blow a head gasket.

No idea about the fob issue.

 

put climate controls to only front vents, full heat on the temp knob, max blower clicks and idle the car

if the air isn't blowing hot after a minute or two turn the car off, you have air in the system. follow billman's bleeding procedure

you can force the fans on by turning on the AC if you want to eliminate if they are connected correctly

 

I would approach the key fob as a separate issue, and focus on the coolant system first. Just my 0.02

Is the Modifry unit a fixed setting, or is it adjustable? If it's adjustable, are you sure it's adjusted correctly?

 

Thanks for the replies.

There is hot air blowing out of the ventilation system. I don't know how to check the coolant temp. switch.

It was really alarming the shear heat coming from the engine block and radiator. I have a v-mount turbo setup with a
log manifold - the system was excellent previously and never over heated even in our mild summer. This was with the
crusty old oem radiator.

I am really concerned

 

Fixed setting and appears to be working fine.

 

A/C removed when v-mount installed.

 

Fans working? Sure does sound like the coolant system may need more bleeding of trapped air.

 

Bad thermostat?

 

The temperature control switch is mounted onto the new radiator, down towards the bottom , on north American cars it is on the driver side of the rad, there is a factory plug that connects to the switch. Peak down there with a flashlight and see if there is a connector plugged into it.

If everything is okay with the switch, then try to see if the rad fans are working.