So, I decided to create an account now that I am an S2K owner.

2001 NFR, 70k miles..bone stock, except for aftermarket clutch.

Where should I start...Last week, upon owning my car for 3 weeks I was coming to a stop in my neighborhood..waited until rpms got to approximately 1k and with the break on I pushed the clutch to put the car in neutral from second. AND as I have read on here about numerous others my rpms dropped below idle and the car stalled.

I thought hmmm ....started it back up..light was green, put her in 1st and all was good, until I began downshifting to the next light. RPMS wanted to drop off really quick and as I got closer to idle..when clutch was pressed the rpms would dropp off below idle and the car would stall, unless I gave it gas..no exceptions. So I turned around, went home, and parked her.

So I began researching, tried the MAP whack, bought a new one and also put a new IACV...none of my original equipment was bad and no vacuum leaks...tested after the fact.

So, I was back to the drawing board, researching..came to crankwalk. I didnt think this was the problem..no noises..knocks or ticks couldnt feel anything in the clutch. So I grabbed someone to push my clutch in while I examined the pully, sure enough it moved towards the front when the clutch was engaged....Just enough to be able to tell. Now is this crankwalk or could the bearing be worn and somehow the torque be pulling on the pulley from the belt. Bearing doesnt sound worn and cant feel it with hand.

I'm out of town for work at the moment, when I get home I plan on dropping the pan and looking for the thrust washers. Also due to the nature of my job I haven't really had a chance to get up under the car and really look around...no time as of yet. I dont know what kind of clutch is in the car, but I assume this is the culprit of the problem..too much pressure...clutch has been in the car for approximately 20k...shifts great..no slippage

Now..

Am I overlooking something here, what do you all think???

As far as replacing the clutch..what do you all think???

Any and all advice is appreciated, as I plan on getting right on this Saturday when I get home.

Thanks

 

from the sound of it its probably not the clutch since its not slipping but since theres no vacuum leaks it might be a good idea to check the lines, specifically if the clutch is disengaging when you press in the clutch all the way

 

Don't get too far ahead of yourself with ideas of crank walk. Make sure that when you are depressing the clutch that you are pressing the pedal to the floor. Make sure that there are no floor mats or anything in the way of the clutch pedal moving all the way to the floor. Get on the highway and then depress the clutch fully, watch the rpm's and see what they do. If your rpm's return to idle then that is normal. If they don't move at all with the clutch depressed then your clutch is not disengaging. Let us know what happens.

 

Don't have an answer to your question but can I ask why you intentionally engine braked to 1k before coming to a stop? Especially if its a stop sign I neutral coast/brake up to it much before I come down to 1k...

 

The longer you engine brake... the more time the injectors are at 0% aka, you're using zero gasoline when you engine brake.

Engine brake as long as you can before coming to a stop.

 

Engine braking FTW, fuel is zero and the ECU uses momentum to keep the car running instead of being in neutral and the ECU using fuel to keep the car at idle.

Sometimes, not very often I will coast in neutral, but coming to a light where it may change I rather be in gear and be able to get right back on it rather than having to rev match and then put in to desired gear.

If your going to engine brake, make sure your rev matching to save syncros.


As far as jumping ahead of myself...I've driven manual cars my whole life...the clutch is being depressed all the way and disengaging all the way or else I would be able to feel it and coming in and out of gear would be rough.

If I infact do have clutchwalk I will know upon dropping my oil pan...I am not going to risk jumping on the highway or just driving it and end up ruining my bottom end to see where the rpms go. I stated before...unless I am blipping the throttle and/ or accelerating the rpms will drop off. Im hoping I caught it before to much damage has occured if any.

Maybe I should restate...

I believe these cars are internally balanced, therefor no need for a harmonic balancer..could be mistaken..even though I look at it and it isn't a solid pulley..either way there should be no visible movement in that pulley regardless...correct??

Who has experienced their crank pulley move and it not be crankwalk but merely a bad bearing on the pulley, etc. and have the same symptoms as I do??

And it seems as though people who did have crankwalk had an aftermarket clutch as I do that applied too much pressure to the crank..breaking the thrush washers.

Can someone with a fare knowledge of these cars chime in and shed some light on replacement clutches and how far from OEM spec they would recommend as I believe if this is crankwalk that's why I have it. If I go into the motor to fix and or replace the bottom end Im not going to leave what I think is the culprit in the car. See where I'm coming from?

And for those who don't think it's crankwalk...can you please tell me under what conditions the crank pulley would move and/or what would cause the car to do this even after what I have done mentioned previously..

Thanks

 

[QUOTE=NFRen,Sep 29 2010, 06:07 PM] Engine braking FTW, fuel is zero and the ECU uses momentum to keep the car running instead of being in neutral and the ECU using fuel to keep the car at idle.

Sometimes, not very often I will coast in neutral, but coming to a light where it may change I rather be in gear and be able to get right back on it rather than having to rev match and then put in to desired gear.

If your going to engine brake, make sure your rev matching to save syncros.


As far as jumping ahead of myself...I've driven manual cars my whole life...the clutch is being depressed all the way and disengaging all the way or else I would be able to feel it and coming in and out of gear would be rough.

If I infact do have clutchwalk I will know upon dropping my oil pan...I am not going to risk jumping on the highway or just driving it and end up ruining my bottom end to see where the rpms go.

 

Ya you'll figure it out. Looks like your on the right track.

 

Find someone with a dial indicator and see how much the pulley is moving. The pulley should pull to the rear clutch-in. If you can pull it back and forth and hear a knock, it's done.

 

OK, so it's definitely crankwalk. I've got a guy I trust who has a used motor with 40k miles on it and is selling to me for a price that is cheaper than rebuilding my bottom end. He heard and watched it run before it was taken out of the previous car. He was saving the motor for himself.

So, my question is. What would you all make sure is checked on this motor? What kind of specifics should I look and/or ask for to be done before I purchase it from him?

Thanks for the help/advice!!