ekoo,
No offense to you, but I don't really get what you were looking for . You come on here as an admitted new owner with an issue and ask for advice. You then proceed to shoot down pretty much every response you get like your knowledge is far superior to anyone who has responded, most of which are reasonable answers given the details you provided. Many of the things you have ruled out and shot down, I honestly don't think you have investigated enough to rule out, but whatever. Plus suggestions of some of the simple things are some of the greatest suggestions IMO, those are the things that are often overlooked.

You asked us for help, if you want it great that is what this site is for, but don't be insulting or act like you have some chip on your sholder because you built a 400+ hp accord (sure it is a cool thing and obviously required some knowledge), but alot of us including myself have done some pretty in depth things with cars as well.

Just take it down a notch man, you are coming across as errogant, IMO

 

The wrong voltage on the MAP or ECT is a pretty decent thought, especailly the MAP, AP1s are notorious for having MAP issues (just search MAP wack). The only issue I have with that is I would think atleast with the MAP, you would have issues under normal driving, not only VTEC. Again, I could be wrong, but sounds like an issue specifically with the VTEC system to me.

Plus forgive my ignorance, but I had Kpro on my last car, so I have never had a need for OBD II datalogers, but is there anything out there short of Kpro that will actually record your real time data?? Because if it does not actually record and play back, then it will be difficult to catch and analyze the "one moment in time"

 

Can't you test those with a $5 voltmeter?

My money is on what S2kRally said. The ECU thinks the car is cold. There is a moisture related short somewhere.

+1 to bgoetz

 

Now, there is a barometric pressure sensor inside the ECU. Mine even threw a code for it a few times. I don't know if it's related to VTEC, though.

 

Wrong..the car goes into open loop under hard acceleration. Open loop is not limp mode. That's ridiculous.

It ignores the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensor is not a factor in VTEC operation.

The ECU looks for:

MAP readings
TPS readings
Speed sensor readings
the VTEC software/hardware/wiring to be in good working order
oil pressure
coolant temp
RPM reading

 

get a garden hose, spray the car a section at a time see if something happens.

 

does it bog down or just bounce sharply of the vtec point like it does when the engine is not properly warmed?

meaning: does the engine run properly during the rev limit or does it go into a labored or starved sound?

 

[QUOTE=bgoetz,Oct 21 2009, 06:00 PM] My recomendation still stands.

 

there should be a stored code if anything.... maybe not enough to set an "active" code so no MIL and no code present according to cheaper OBD2 scanners. try getting ahold of like a snap on modus or something high end that can read stored and history codes. since your problem doesnt happen often enough, depending on the fault, your ECU might not set that code as active until it sees X amount of failures in X amount of drive cycles.

 

Go to a Honda dealer or someone that has access to the HDS or laptop with a GNA 600, take a 30 seconds snapshot when the problem occurs and take a another when it's normal. Compare the two and you will find the problem