MY01 is making a clicking noise from the rear. It makes this noise when I accelerate slow and fast, same sound like a torn or bad cv boot. However, it doesn't make this noise when I'm traveling at higher speeds and turning.

At first, it started with a single click about 2 weeks ago and now it has progress to multiple clicks from 4-10 and then its done.. no more sound. This also only occures when it's in gear and from stop to start. Some times I can hear it at higher speeds of 35+ mph. I have tighten up the axle nut thinking it was that but no luck.

The car also vibrates only in 1 and 2 gear when I accelerate from 2k to 3k rpm and if pass the 3k it stops vibrating. Weird!?!!?

Has someone ever had this problem or know the cause?

 

Same problem, no answer. Mine almost seems to come from weight transfer. Deffinetly coming from the rear. Just replaced transmission fluid and differential gear oil and still have same click noise. Hard to pin down..................

 

Someone has to have diagnosed this issue.. older AP1's should most likely encounter the most of the same problems as the cars get older... One day just CLICK and it's been current. I did however have the car parked for a little over a week about a month ago and when I went to drive it I heard a loud bang from the rear, out and checked and nothing seemed wrong. I figured it was the brake pads stuck to the disc from it sitting there. I'm going to jack the car up this weekend and let it spin to see if I can find the where the sounnd is coming from. If anyone know before the weekend please input, lol sounds desperate but I am because my car is my DD!

 

*Update* I raised the car up and had a buddy accelerate.... There was so much noise I could barely hear the clicking! I didn't see anything stuck underneath nothin seemed loose. I am in total confusion on what this could be. I was assuming the drvie shaft or boots?

I also get this scrathing noise when I'm like at 55+ mph maintaining speed.. weird. Anyone??

 

I have the transmission backlash noise like a lot of the early S2000's, but this click noise, and it is just a single click, comes when in low gear and coming after a shift. Clutch can be depressed or not and still get the click. Don't think it is the clutch. Again it seems to be a weight transfer issue but is deffinetly coming from the rear end somewhere. Checked the spare tire bolt that I have heard people talk about being loose but that was not it. Still searching, scratching head, and listening intently.

 

I'm as lost as you are about this mystery noise?? I hope someone can help us out.

 

Do you hear the clicks from a certain side? Driver? Passenger?

 

You had your axle nut tsb done already?

 

I am not aware of any axle nut tsb. Whats up with the axle nut?
If I had to guess, I would say the nosie was coming from passenger side rear.

 

I greased and 2 o'clocked the nut, but the sound is still persisting. I also found this upon researching.. Honda-tech.com

Might be related to this TSB:

Suspension - Creak/Grunt From Rear At Low Speeds
SOURCE: Honda Service News
TITLE: Creak of Grunt From Rear of Vehicle at Low Speeds
APPLIES TO: 2000-2005 S2000
SERVICE TIP:
Getting complaints from owners of '00-05 S2000s of a creak or grunt from the rear of the vehicle when cornering or driving at low speeds? The problem could be there's movement between the outboard joint and the wheel hub. To get rid of this noise, you need to clean and lube the mating surfaces of the outboard joint and the wheel hub.
Here's how:

Notes
1. Remove the wheel nuts and the rear wheel.
2. Lift up the stake on the spindle nut, and remove the nut.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut
4. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm.
5. Pull the knuckle outward, and use a plastic hammer to remove the outboard joint from the wheel hub.
6. Clean the mating surfaces of the outboard joint and the wheel hub.
7. Apply a thin layer of DC111 silicone compound to the face of the outboard joint. This compound reduces the friction between the joint and the wheel hub so the noise won't happen again.
8. Pull the knuckle outward, and install the outboard joint to the wheel hub.
9. Reconnect the ball joint to the lower arm. Torque the castle nut to 69 N-m (51 lb-ft) , then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
10. Clean the wheel hub and the spindle threads.
11. Lubricate the seating surface of a new spindle nut with engine oil, then install the nut. Torque the nut to 245 N-m (181 lb-ft) . Use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
12. Reinstall the rear wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 N-m (80 lb-ft) .
13. Repeat steps 1 thru 12 for the other outboard joint.


Would this sovle the symptoms? This is a lot of work, but I think I'll give it a go when the weather clears up.